re-post - correction on the bottom... Hi, I have a bit of a dilemma relevant to some basic questions regarding American persimmons. I could use some expert advice. I have, on their way from John Brittain of Nollin River Nursery, a 'Morris Burton', 'Early Golden', 'Szukis', and 'Prok' (from starkbros). I have a maximum square portion space of 30' by 30' to dedicate to growing a single American persimmon; (I'm using it in my native plant/native fruit plant yard nature-scape project that I'm going to eventually base a website encouraging native naturescaping and native fruits). As I mentioned previously, I am considering putting all 4 varieties in a single hole, about 5" apart from one another in a box-shape formation, so that they might grow, expanding their trunks until they fuse to form a solid trunk: inosculation/approach grafting. Someone suggested to me that this may cause the trunk to rot and may not cause a true fusion, leaving 4 cores separate. Since I haven't seen too many American persimmons in nature (all of which have been under 20' in height), can you tell me a little about pruning them and so on: 1. What is the advantage to pruning the height since (as long as grown in the open) the lowest branches will still be reachable? 2. In the north (i.e. NJ), generally, how wide do you think that an American persimmon grown in full sun on moist, well-drained soil would reach in 50 years time? I believe 30' wide and 50' tall. 3. If I planted the 4 trees separately spaced at 15' apart, instead of the above approach, could I easily prune them anually to be a life-long width of only 15'? If I did this, would this result in a disproportionately wide trunk and branches (as with some bonsai specimins) and weaken the tree through frustrating its natural growth inclination? I think restrictive pruning practices are determental to the lifespan of trees and shrubs. 3a. If I can prune each to 15' apart, since it will be a relatively small tree, I can probably consolidate and keep just one tree consisting of multiple varieties; although persimmons are not easy to maintain as a multi-graft project, if kept under 20', I don't see how I couldn't label each of the 4-varieties of main limbs and prune each so that no one dominates over the others; I could keep track of variety of each main branch and see to it that all new branches are kept in ballance. If I were to let the tree grow too large, of course, when the tree drops old branches, it would drop the initial set and may be replace by just 1, 2, (or 3) of the original 4. 4. What about this idea... I've never heard of it, but it seems like it could be a GREAT idea? which could apply to all fruit tree multi-grafting - no maintance required. What if you did a graft of a single variety unto a root stock and once that 1st variety forms an extended lead, graft a 2nd above it to continue the single lead, and a 3rd, and 4th, and so on; in this way, as the sapling grows into a tree, the trunk will be formed of a sequence of 4 segments (varieties)? It would be like a linear sequence of 4 pencils, glued tip-to-eraser. Each pencil, i.e. each trunk segment, will put forth buds from the side of the trunk to form the branches that will, of course, be of its self-same variety. No more loosing varieties to competition. If I were to do this, I would graft the single-lead sequence of 4 plus the bottom two at the top, for a total of 6 just in case the lowest portion of the tree has no limbs when the tree is mature/tall. I bet this has been done - I'll try to do a good enough search to find out. Thanks, Steve

Some of the varieties are just more vigorous than others. Every year you need to prune back the most vigorous branches so they don't overrun the less vigorous. If that doesn't work you will need to graft the less vigorous varieties on their own tree.

Hi Pepino, thank you for answering my query. My fruit tree is under cover but it still gets the cold weather we are experiencing in Melbourne. It gets some morning sun ( when we get it). My covered area is 70sq meters with an opening of 10meters, so as you see there is a lot of room for good ventilation and no additional heat. I have no idea why it broke dormancy. Two weeks ago I also picked a beautifull bunch of roses as I was pruning, now that too is rather unusual.I am also picking the odd cherry tomatoe from a plant that is growing with the lavender!!!

I have a multigraft Asian pear on OHxF333. I believe that D'Anjou pear is grafted onto the OHxF333 rootstock and then 4 varieties of Asian pears are clip budded onto the Anjou whip. So the Anjou is acting as an inter-stem. Ultimately the tree is a 5x1 because I can still get the euro pear from the tree. I also have a 4x1 cherry on G5 rootstock. It has 3 sweets along with Montmorency. I've always read that you can't graft Tart cherry to sweet cherry. That makes me think that the G5 rootstock is grown into a whip and then all 4 varieties are budded onto the whip. What shoots this theory down is that the tree appears to have a graft union low to the ground. So I'm not sure whats going on. lol