I think jean001 is referring to indumentum. Indumentum is a fuzzy coating, usually just on the back. It does not include dryness or yellowing of the edges. Those are symptoms of other problems or old leaves ready to fall off. To expand on morz8's reply: RUST: Small bright yellow spots is a symptom of Azalea Rust, Puccininastrum vaccinii, a fungal disease. Orange-red pustules containing spores form on the lower surface of the leaf. This rust is only sporadically severe and typically infects deciduous azaleas. Control by avoiding those hybrids and species which are very susceptible to rust. Good air circulation is helpful. Triadimefon seems to help, but may not be registered for use on rhododendrons. SCALE INSECTS: Cottony masses on underside of leaves are a symptom of egg masses of the Cottony Azalea Scale, Pulvinaria floccifera. They are up to 1/2 inch long. Control is the same as with other scale insects. WHITE FLIES: Yellow mottling on the upper surface of leaves and black sooty mold and transparent insects on the bottom are symptoms of Azalea Whitefly (Pealius azaleae.) and Rhododendron Whitefly (Dialeurodes chittendeni.). These may also cause the following symptoms: Small white spots on the underside of leaves and small white flies on under-surface of leaves is also an indication in infestation of Azalea Whitefly (Pealius azaleae.) and Rhododendron Whitefly (Dialeurodes chittendeni.). They are more prevalent on certain varieties and on plants grown in protected areas. These small white flying insects look like an aphid with wings and suck on the underside of foliage, leaving white spots where it has been. Heavy infestations cause the margins of terminal leaves to cup. These infested leaves will eventually turn yellowish and appear wilted. The lower leaves become covered with honeydew, followed by sooty mold (a black coating). To check for the presence of whiteflies, shake the terminals of white azaleas to flush out adult whiteflies which look like tiny white moths. Examine the lower surfaces of leaves for the presence of nymphs, which are flat, yellowish green, and resemble scale insects. All stages occur on the under sides of leaves. This whitefly is usually limited to varieties of the snow azalea, Rhododendron mucronatum. If the infestation is light, little or no plant symptoms are evident, and if beneficial insects are present, spray the undersides of leaves with insecticidal soap or a horticultural oil at the 2%summer rate. If the infestation is heavy use a registered residual insecticide such as Malathion, Diazinon or Orthene. Dick Murcott had a simple remedy to control the numbers of white flies. He would hang pieces of stiff plastic or 12" square metal sheets painted with a bright yellow/orange paint and then covered with petroleum jelly or any clear, sticky material. The white flies will fly to the colored material and get stuck in the sticky stuff! MILDEW: A grayish white, powdery coating or fuzzy white growth on upper or lower surfaces is Powdery Mildew (Microsphaera azaleae). This is more prevalent on deciduous azaleas and sometimes it affects the lower surface more. Entire leaves can be covered. In late summer and fall, small black specks may be found in the white areas. Powdery mildew is more severe on shaded plants. It is favored by the high humidity found in crowded plantings and damp locations. The disease is more severe during periods of cool, moist weather. These fungi produce spores on the surface of the infected leaves which are spread by wind currents to surrounding leaf tissue. These fungi over-winter in the bud scales for initiation of infection next season. There are a number of ways to manage this disease. * Do not overwater or overfertilize plants, as the fungus prefers succulent new growth. * Hand-pick and destroy mildewed leaves to control small amounts of infection. * Hose diseased plants with water when practical. This can help remove fungus and prevent new infections. * Prune and space plantings to allow good air circulation. Do not plant in extremely shaded or damp areas. * Rake and destroy fallen leaves year-round to reduce infection source. Do not compost diseased materials. Chemical control is possible. Begin applications when you first notice the disease on current-year leaves. If disease appears late summer, applications are not necessary on deciduous azaleas. Do not apply sulfur products when temperature is over 85F or within a few weeks of an oil spray. * Black Leaf Sulfur Dust * Bonide Lime Sulfur Spray * Bonide Remedy * Monterey Fungi-Fighter * Ortho RosePride Funginex * Ortho RosePride Orthenex * Safer Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Garden Fungicide * triadimefon (Bayleton, Strike) * Spectracide IMMUNOX This fungal disease can weaken the plant. Spray when you first see the disease and then again in 10 days. Chemicals will not control the fungi that has already become established. For more information see the section following on 'rhododendron powdery mildew'. The symptoms are different, but the organism and control are the same.

All good advice sinner_gurl. And what is a sin to one person, is only fun to another.. And I could think of a few with you two!!! J/K As for fruit this year, well, the p. edulis flavicarpa is sort of year round flowering, so the sooner you get some different pollen ( caerulea an excellent choice) the sooner you will have passionfruits. I have harvested over 120 so far off of my one remaining 4 year old vine. No better fruit for cocktails has ever been made.

This is a wonderful recipe from the City Bakery in NY for the tarts. I've made them with fresh passionfruit juice. They're amazing! Passion-Fruit Tarts Yield: 6 tarts Pure passion-fruit juice or puree (see note) 1 1/3 cups Vanilla bean, split 1/2 Large egg yolks 3 Granulated sugar 1/4 cup Heavy cream 1/2 cup Sweet tart shells, fully baked, 4-in. in diameter 6 Seedless raspberry preserves 1/4 cup Pour juice or puree into medium saucepan. Scrape in seeds from vanilla bean; add pod. Warm over low heat. 2. Combine yolks and sugar in medium metal bowl; whisk to combine. Set bowl over saucepan of boiling water; whisk yolks and sugar until thick and pale, about 2 minutes. 3. Pour hot juice or puree into yolk mixture, whisking constantly. Using a wooden spoon, stir until mixture thickens, about 1 minute; strain into large bowl; cool. 4. Pour cream into mixing bowl. Beat until stiff peaks form; fold whipped cream into cooled passion-fruit mixture. 5. Ladle passion-fruit cream into tart shells. Freeze for at least 4 hours or overnight. 6. To add preserve "polka dots" hold frozen tart with fingertips, inset apple corer into fruit cream down to tart shell. Twist and pull corer out, leaving a cylindrical hole in tart. Repeat with remaining frozen tarts. 7. Put preserves in bowl and whisk until smooth. Fill medium paper pastry bag with preserves; cut small opening in tip; fill holes in tarts with preserves. 8. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to allow passion fruit and preserves to reach same temperature; let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes before serving. Note: Only pure passion-fruit juice or puree is acceptable. Flavored drinks do not work. The juice or puree, usually frozen, is available through speciality shops or mail order. I found the tart recipe online, but not the recipe for the shells and my copy of "Book of Tarts" is packed away somewhere in the attic, but your favorite pâte brisée or pie crust recipe will be fine.

I asked the friend who gave me the fruit years ago, and she doesn't remember or recognize my description of the fruit. I know the tree looks like citrus, but the fruit didn't look like any citrus I've seen. well, they're in an out-of-the-way spot, so I can leave it and see if it ever fruits.