Suggestions for crown rot resistant varieties (EV only)
texaslynn19
7 years ago
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texaslynn19
7 years agoRelated Discussions
trees resistent to brown rot
Comments (13)Most medicines are poison. Fungicides are designed to kill an organism not closely related to you (as life forms go). Do you mean poison or synthetic poison? Maybe you just mean "synthetic compound". Although fruit tends to be more susceptible to rot the riper it gets, I stop spraying fungicide here a month before harvest so the fungicide has long since become inactive by the time I harvest my fruit. Anything remaining on the fruit isn't anywhere near enough of a poison to even kill what it was designed for. My stone fruit has a short shelf life and I lose a few fruit to rot but I even am able to grow nectarines this way. However, you may not be so lucky in your climate. You have to experiment to discover least-spray options. The residue issue is another matter, but I suspect that the residue of the fruit I produce with 2 insecticide and fungicide sprays in spring and 2 or 3 fungicide sprays in summer, well before harvest, leaves only the tiniest trace by the time I eat my fruit. I'm not saying that spraying closer to harvest causes a risky exposure, but as long as I don't need it, why bother. If you are nervous about using pesticides, I suggest you research this forum for growing with ziplock sandwich bags around individual fruit. With this method I believe you can get by with a single spray at petal fall....See MoreCan you *Not* Prune EvS and Mme Plantier
Comments (18)Strawberry, I'd say mine would have been about the size of Iowa Jade's, about 6' x 7' if the forsythia hadn't swallowed the eastern third. It leads a difficult life though. It has a lot of root competition from a mature maple, a wisteria and the forsythia and it does not receive full sun. I cannot say how long it lasts cut as I don't cut it. I don't mind the dead petals because they do not linger long here (I guess because by that time it is fairly hot) and a rose bush with buds, full blown flowers and blasted flowers with petals on the ground suits me. Cath...See MoreCrown Rot....or What? Is It Catching?
Comments (33)One way to help understand soil additive is to compare it to food. There is the food in the pantry which is valuable food but until something is done to it you cannot eat it. Most soil additives fall in that class including oyster shell and granite. Then there is the food on the table. It is prepared and ready to eat but if you don't like a particular food or you are not hungry you may not eat it. My daughter-in-law will not eat chocolate. You can set it out be she will always tell you no. Most soil tests test what is on the table, the nutrients that are water soluble and easily measured with chemicals. Just because the nitrogen is there does not mean the plants can use it or will consume it. It may be ammonium nitrate and that particular plant needs a nitrite form of nitrogen. So a soil test can tell you that you have plenty of nitrogen when you don't have usable nitrogen or the test will show insufficient nitrogen when your soil is loaded with nitrogen rich bacteria. That is the problem with soil tests. They tell you what is on the table but they don't tell you what is in the pantry or what should be on the table i.e. what the plants can eat. Finally you are what you eat. A leaf assay test will tell you what is in the leaf, what the plant is actually eating and/or what the plant should be getting but that it does not have enough of. Calcium, rock phosphate, granite will not show up in most soil tests but if fungi is there the fungi has the enzymes to break down the minerals and transport them via their hyphae to the root zone of the plants. If inorganic fertilizers have killed the bacteria and fungi then there may be everything you need in the pantry but the plants will not get it and the tests will not measure it. For most people the best way to handle soil is to give the plants a good humus rich friable soil to sink their roots in and then very little if any fertilizer. Thinks like cotton seed meal, rock phosphate, bone meal, and so forth may be excellent but either not available to the plants or not necessary and most tests won't show you anyway so learn to watch the vigor and health of the foliage. A trained eye can tell you as much as most tests. BTW I will be in Orlando October 25 - 28, next month for the fall board meeting and in 2009 for the National Convention. I usually stay with Dan Hansen while I'm in Orlando Gary...See MoreSwapping roses for healthier, more disease resistant varieties.
Comments (52)Pink Rose, I know Cool Roses sells a wider variety of roses on their website. The ones on their site is ones that they ship. If there is a certain rose that you are looking for, I would at least suggest calling and asking if they have it. Also, Geoff will do custom grafts. I second SoFl that you should call them; they will bring things to the sale in Orlando. SoFl I love my Nahema and Dames De Chennonceau! They are doing great. Though, I tried to rescue a Nahema that someone else shovel pruned and left by the side of the road. It did not make it. I also lost one that I purchased that was in my "rose pond". I think the roots don't like it if you try and move it. I am glad to know that Edenmy eye on that one. Duchess De Brabant is beautiful, but hated my yard. I think it puts down really deep roots, because it died back in wet time of the year, even though it was not in the pond. Quietness, does well on own root. I dont think it likes to be sprayed though, but it seems to be tough without it....See MoreMaryl (Okla. Zone 7a)
7 years agotexaslynn19
7 years agoruthz
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoMaryl (Okla. Zone 7a)
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agotexaslynn19
7 years agoMaryl (Okla. Zone 7a)
7 years agoEd
7 years agoMaryl (Okla. Zone 7a)
7 years agoEd
7 years ago
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