Suggestions for crown rot resistant varieties (EV only)
texaslynn19
8 years ago
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texaslynn19
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Is Apple Babe resistant to crown rot?
Comments (3)Wow, seedling rootstocks are pretty rare these days. The crown rot issue is complicated by your deep planting of an unusual tree. Most varieties don't readily root out and because yours has, crown rot susceptibility may be based on the relative resistance of your cultivar. If you're really concerned about it I suggest you plant it on a slight hill (like a raised bed). Seedling rootstocks are usually resistant although with seedlings there is always a certain roll of the genetic dice....See Moretrees resistent to brown rot
Comments (13)Most medicines are poison. Fungicides are designed to kill an organism not closely related to you (as life forms go). Do you mean poison or synthetic poison? Maybe you just mean "synthetic compound". Although fruit tends to be more susceptible to rot the riper it gets, I stop spraying fungicide here a month before harvest so the fungicide has long since become inactive by the time I harvest my fruit. Anything remaining on the fruit isn't anywhere near enough of a poison to even kill what it was designed for. My stone fruit has a short shelf life and I lose a few fruit to rot but I even am able to grow nectarines this way. However, you may not be so lucky in your climate. You have to experiment to discover least-spray options. The residue issue is another matter, but I suspect that the residue of the fruit I produce with 2 insecticide and fungicide sprays in spring and 2 or 3 fungicide sprays in summer, well before harvest, leaves only the tiniest trace by the time I eat my fruit. I'm not saying that spraying closer to harvest causes a risky exposure, but as long as I don't need it, why bother. If you are nervous about using pesticides, I suggest you research this forum for growing with ziplock sandwich bags around individual fruit. With this method I believe you can get by with a single spray at petal fall....See Moreonly San Marzano is rotting
Comments (23)jollyrd - how many plants do you have room for? The other two are so-so. Nothing is extremely wrong with them, and I will most likely plant them again next year. They are fine, fruit is not cracking, no bad taste, but not 'wow tomato' taste or smell. Then why grow them again and waste the space? And why paste types if taste/flavor in fresh eating is your goal? Like mentioned above, paste types aren't grown for fresh eating (except maybe Opalka) or even flavor but for their thick sauce abilities to which lots of seasonings are added OR, in our case, for drying. While soil tests are very beneficial and nothing beats well amended soil for growing, and growing conditions can cause BER and other problems, TASTE is a whole other issue. Tomato fresh-eating flavor comes primarily from the variety you choose. So if that is the goal - fresh eating flavor - then you need to focus on some very different varieties. Primarily beefsteaks and so-called slicing tomatoes. No yellows IMO and no cherries except maybe Sun Gold and Black Cherry and no paste types. You will find literally tons of recommendations here on best flavor as it is a very personal taste-bud thing. So all I can do it list some of the many varieties we routinely grow for fresh eating (and also for canning). They are a mix of hybrids and open-pollinated varieties, all are indeterminates, and not necessarily in order, ok? Arkansas Traveler Giant Belgium Champion Jet Star Supersonic Beefsteak Rutgers etc. (there are many more) Then get your soil test and add what it recommends and you'll be good to go. ;) Dave...See MoreCrack-resistant varieties?
Comments (20)Carolyn, thanks for returning to this conversation. Yes, that is probably the post I was thinking of. But I still feel like we're dancing around the subject... Which varieties are not prone to the genetically associated types of splitting? Further, are the genetically associated types of splitting caused by environmental stress? In other words, since I cannot entirely control the environment, I would like to control what I can, which is my choice of seed to grow. So I would like to avoid those cultivars which are prone to genetically associated cracking. Unless all cultivars are prone to genetically associated cracking, which has not ever been said. Beyond that it would be interesting to know if genetic splitting is only seen under conditions of environmental stress, and whether it happens before the non-genetically induced type of cracking in those conditions. Do radial and concentic splitting occur before the fruit gets to the point of horizontal splitting? Ah, I had better stop. My mind asks incessant questions. Beyond the scope of this discussion. Brian, thanks for your information too. My soil is mildly deficient in calcium. I did treat it with the recommended amount of lime, per my soil test results and had much less blossom end rot this year. Another soil test is in order, since I don't know if I need to keep adding lime every year, though I suspect I might given the soil type. As for the green house or hoop house to grow "perfect" tomatoes, I knew that was a solution. I'll show the boss (family joke, my husband and I call each other the boss) what you said, maybe he'll come around to the idea of one a little faster. Right now he has an unreasonable dislike of hoop houses. :) The greenhouse discussion has been going on for 3 years now. I wonder if shade cloth might help. In the field, not in getting me a greenhouse. I know I keep saying this, but thank you everyone. I really feel like I am learning alot from everyone's diverse inputs. And I like learning almost as much as I like growing plants! Cheers!...See MoreMaryl (Okla. Zone 7a)
8 years agotexaslynn19
8 years agoruthz
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoMaryl (Okla. Zone 7a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agotexaslynn19
8 years agoMaryl (Okla. Zone 7a)
8 years agoEd
8 years agoMaryl (Okla. Zone 7a)
8 years agoEd
8 years ago
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