Suggestion for raised bed soil mix
dba1954
7 years ago
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kimmq
7 years agodba1954
7 years agoRelated Discussions
How can I make best soil mix for new raised beds?
Comments (7)Contact your counties office of your state Agricultural Universities Cooperative Extension Service about having a good soil test done (usually in the $6.00 to $15.00 range). These simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. may be of some help in determining what you have. A good soil for plant growth will have between 5 and 8 percent organic matter....See MoreSoil mix for asparagus in raised bed
Comments (13)Skybird - sorry, I think I completely confused you! The soil that sinks every year is a container mix we had delivered from a nursery when we built the first four beds, so there's no native soil in those at all. Just organic stuff, so it's constantly degrading. I just didn't want to add SO much organic matter to our native soil in the asparagus bed that it would end up doing the same thing, but it seems like I would need to use at least 1/3 or more organic matter for that to happen, and I don't think I need nearly that much. I'm probably just obsessing anyway (what a shock!) ;) Our soil is good...kind of a heavy loam I guess. I wouldn't quite say "light and fluffy," but it usually crumbles fairly easily. It really only gets hard when it's been compacted. I find clay once in a while when I dig around but there's not much at all in the first foot or so. Many wise and hard-working homeowners before us have brought in good stuff. But it must have been all clay a looooong time ago - we're about a mile or less from what used to be an old brickyard. And believe me, we WILL certainly enjoy the asparagus - it's my favorite veggie. :) I guess we should expect to be able to start harvesting in the third year, which seems far away until I realize we've been in this house more than five years already. Thanks again! Dianne...See MoreRaised beds, what to put on the bottom and what soil mix?
Comments (1)This article should answer a lot of your questions. The book covers them in more detail as well. http://www.squarefootgardening.com/html/body_mix_full.html...See Moreneed advice on replacing soil mix in raised beds
Comments (78)Questions: Is it mulch on top of the soil or is that your soil mix that we can see? If it is the soil (as I assumed) then it's not a great mix in my opinion. In what way are you applying water? If it is by hand, then I think even more so that one of your main issues is not enough moisture. The parsley gives a clue to this because we invariably water less on edges and corners. So we have to water those more. Also, edges and corners dry out more anyway, due to exposure. This I wholeheartedly agree with: 'If your soil began as a composed medium brought in from an outside source, you really don't know its composition.' And this: 'I prefer native soil as the major foundation. This is where my experience is focused. Sitting here, a few hundred miles away, I can't feel or see your soil. Only you know the additions, and the amounts. Even if you told me, it would be tough for me to diagnose the problem.' I've just read: 'The problem I have with using native soil is that I don't have any.' And I think that this is half of your problem. (The other half is lack of water.) 'Unless, there's something I didn't see in the video (like a concrete pad,) the native soil that sits under your beds where they are should work just fine. You might be surprised at how much it will expand once it's tilled and amended with compost and organic matter.' Agreed. (But please use good, home made compost. Not perlite, not some bought bag of rot (unless its good rot) and not Mel's Mix - whatever that is. I have no faith and no confidence in almost anything out there that they claim is good.)...See Moredba1954
7 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agodba1954
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agokimmq
7 years agodba1954
7 years agodba1954
7 years ago
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