hi & thank you both for your responses. i do not own a cat so thats ruled out. I have other plants that are planted in an organic soil type thing which on the bag states is a mix of "compost bark, sphagnum peat moss, pasteurized poultry litter, and an organic wetting agent" that are doing quite well. do you think i should replant these 2 in this type of soil? the room my plants are in is approx 16x18 and the only source of natural light is through my sliding patio doors. the room temp is at a constant 65 degrees Fahrenheit. i dont know what could be causing those burn marks on the leaves of my janet craig, its kept in a low lighted corner. the pot that the pachira is in is 7"tall x 6"diameter, the tree itself is 13.5" tall from the soil line to the top most leaf.

Yes, those are a fungal leaf spot. Very common in hydrangeas and called cercospora leaf spot. There is no cure but some fungicides are sold to control the infections. Unfortunately, by the time when these spots become visible (September-ish), the shrubs are close to going dormant and the leaves are about to brown out so, it does not make $$$ sense to use them. This may have started in your garden or in the nursery. Overhead watering is what normally triggers this problem so watering the soil and never the leaves can help considerably. Increasing air flow between plants and throwing away into the trash all of dried out blooms and leaves also helps. I have some hydrangeas that are planted several feet from each other and the infected ones have not transferred the leaf spot to the others yet. Of course, I use drip irrigation and I do try to get rid of the leaves and blooms that are full of fungi. The infection is actually present in new leaves and is sometimes visible much earlier than in September. Hard to "tell" though in earlier months. In years with a lot of rain in Sept, I see more leaf spots. In drier years, I see less spots. Feel free to cut the petiole that connects the worst looking leaves from the stem. Since in September some hydrangeas have already developed flower buds at the ends of the stems, be careful to cut the petiole and not the end of the stems. Luis PS - more info: http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1212/ANR-1212.pdf

last pic .... is that a duplicate to the left?? ... is it infested also ... if not ... then just get rid of the duplicate .. and move on with your baby life ... check all your plants .. isolate those with problems ... if it were summer... i would suggest you put them outside for summer ... in full bright shade ... and treat them with a systemic remedy ... at least a month prior to bringing them back in the house for next winter .... though scale can be controlled mechanically ... by hand i mean ... they are one thing i go all out war on ... as im not real interested in playing with them repeatedly over the next 6 months to year ... outdoors is where i prefer to use chemicals ... good luck with the babe ... ken

Zone 6 here also. All I can say is, weather pattern has been crazy. I had nice bloom on my forsythia hedge, and then we had a snow event with freezing temps and that pretty well nipped them. My daffodils did come up and bloom as usual, but not for long. Surprisingly the lilac buds made it through some of these erratic temperature swings. I just posted about not having chrysanthemum growth in a few of my beds. Sorry to hear about the daffodils. Unfortunately have to wait till next year. I suspect they'll be fine.