On an episode of Design Inc. they had an issue that was pretty similar. You can see over the doorway where the trim is white but on either side the trim is dark like the cabinets. I think that yuo could easily stop the white trim at the corner or wherever you'd like and let the dark trim pick up. Here is a link that might be useful: Denise's Kitchen

Now you got me started. I was going to comment that the molding and the floors look wonderful and should stay the colors they are. In many older houses with stained ww, the floor is lighter, giving some interest to the room. Then you got me started on base shoe, my FAVORITE topic. IMHO, you must put the base shoe up. It's the finishing touch on fine woodwork. I've always wondered why it is called base shoe and finally determined that it's like putting on your best clothing and then going barefoot. It just looks unfinished. My former house had all natural molding, what I wouldn't give to have it now. I love my house, but the white moldings can go...and the upkeep. My guess is if you're using the original baseshoe and it's held up all these years, it'll will hold up for many more. New stuff, unless you buy oak, not so much. Have fun. The house is beautiful.

Plastic-looking poly is generally due to the wooden end of the brush, not the bristle end. But to address your options: Wax is generally a poor finish by itself. Virtually no protection. Once you use it, it inhibits and/or reduces the ability to coat with something else down the line. Light coats of low-gloss (i.e., Satin) poly, or for that matter, another non-poly varnish would work well. You can brush these on or wipe on for easy to apply and thinner coats. Danish Oil is not a well-defined product as each manufacturer makes up their own formula. Antique Oils, Teak Oils, the so-called "Tung Oil" Finishes, and [insert brand name] Oil are usually blends of lots of thinner, linseed oil, and a bit of varnish -or- simply a highly thinned (i.e., wiping) varnish. The more oil, the less build of the film. Also the more oil, the sooner they are going to look dull and need reviving. Not a problem, just add some more and wipe the excess off. Biggest problem here is not wiping off the excess and building up a sticky, soft finish. I've not used Watco's Rejuvenating Oil. From the MSDS it appears to be mostly a highly thinned linseed oil. As such, it will need regular renewal. Instead of using this, I would probably just dampen a rag with boiled linseed oil and not pay for more than half a can of paint thinner (naphtha). It also (from the name) appears to be oriented as a "refresher" not the only coat. If this was my project, I'd probably get a can of varnish, thin it 50-50 with mineral spirits, and wipe on enough coats to get the look I want. I can also guess from your initial line that you applied Minwax "Wood Finish" thinking it was really a "wood finish." It is not. It is a stain with just enough varnish to bind the pigment to the wood in preparation for a finish coat. Here is a link that might be useful: article on wiping varnish

I am a woodworker. Use wood stains, wood dyes, and all manner of clear/tinted finishes. I have the original natural, stained woodwork in this 1965 built house. It is hideous. Pine and poplar wood, stained with fruitwood stain(a color that fell way out of favor early on), it did not age well. Have sanded the doors to remove most of the stain color(it also bleaches), painted the original cabinets white and am in the process of painting the door/base molding white as well. Looks MUCH better!!!!! Now, when someone mentions painting oak, I get distressed. No matter the color, painted oak looks terrible. So, not all wood looks good stained, and some look terrible painted.