If they had tapcons through them they are beyond toothpics. Anyway, that technique is not good for heavy exterior doors that are always working the hinges and shifting the stress. I would drill them out 5/8" and glue face-grain plugs into the holes (use epoxy), chisel/sand them flush and drill brand new holes. My preferred wood for this birdseye maple because of the interlocking grain it is loath to split, and the screw holes will take any stress the door will give it.

If you could get the frame out, tee-nuts installed from the hidden side would also be great, use a #10 thread. But you need to position them accurately.

In the past I have also inserted a rectangle of 3/4" plywood between the frame and the studs; then used longer screws to reach it. It was an unusual case where 3/4" was available behind the frame.

Another dowel technique is to take off the casing and carefully bore 1/2" holes that meet the hinge screw locations, drive in dowels, then pre-drill before putting the screws back in; this orients the grain of the dowel better to take a screw than the dowel-plug method, which is into weaker end-grain material.

You could try simply filling the holes with 5 min epoxy thickened with wood flour, let it harden completely and re-drill the holes. If you wax the screw threads they will be able to be removed, if the glue is still curing they may cement themselves in.

Casey