Agree with Judy that the mirror should be the same color as vanity and side med cab should be the same color as the walls. Just be sure to get a satin or semigloss in the same color as the walls to paint the cabinet. Be sure to do proper prep to take the gloss off of all items before painting, use a primer, too. Top coat will stick better, be less likely to chip.

Hi Kristin & Alex, Typically Forevermark will give you back ordered dates when you recieve your quote. It's unfortunate your dealer did not relay these delays to you before ordering. For an RTA cabinet, Forevermark is very good quality and span the gap with applications for a contractor flip to a semi-custom kitchen remodel, depending on the experience of your designer. I've worked with Forevermark for over a decade. With those thousands of orders there have been some defects and damaged parts needing replaced but their warranty claim process is easy and painless and we usually get replacements within a week. Please let me know if you have any specific questions - I'll be happy to help.

I have KCD premium white shaker and love them. Excellent quality. You can find them online, and have them installed by a cabinet company, which is 10-15k less than was bid by one of their distributors.

I'm a custom cabinet maker. I specialize in hardwood cabinetry. The reason why that Omega sample is so jarring is the uniform widths of each board in the panel and no consideration to the grain. Theres heartwood next to sap wood. Wood is meant to create an organic texture, warmth, and feel. I highly recomend against LAMINATE. Pre-manufactured veneered cabinetry can also be quite jarring due to the repeat patterns. I either vacuum bag a custom 6mm (1/4") hardwood "skin" onto a 12mm(1/2") sheet of ply or just use straight hardwood. Grain selection and board width can all be considered this way. Cost is about the same since theres a material/labor trade off between both types. Im still finishing off my personal kitchen, pictured below. I used painted plywood carcasses (Id normally use a walnut veneered plywood for the internals for a customer), but I went with solid walnut (with sliding dovetails in backside of the doors to prevent cupping) for all the end panels, doors, face frames, and drawer fronts. I take time to select boards for a panel so that the figuring is somewhat similar and try to transition from heart to sap. In addition to aesthetics you dont want to glue up dark heartwood next to light sap wood as the seasonal movement is much different(warps and splits). You cannot achieve this continuous grain look with any laminate or mass produced panel. For the kitchen pictured below I'd charge (including painted island cabinetry 12'x4') about 75-120k in the UK: that includes dovetail drawer boxes, poplar faceframes, sawtooth shelf supports, hardwood nosing on all shelfs, custom wood handles, blum components, etc... but would not include countertops. I'd guess price would actually be about the same in US Dollars as lumber is much cheaper stateside although I moved to UK during Covid and not sure where pricing has landed back home.