In my experience some of the early "English Roses" exhibit a growth habit very similar to what we associate with the Hybrid Perpetuals; i.e. long lanky canes that only bloom at the tips. However, the English Roses are in all actuality a very mixed bag when it comes to growth habits and remontancy. For example, my favorite English Rose MOLINUEX exhibits a growth habit and repeat bloom similar to a Floribunda. HERITAGE has always reminded me of the Bourbons (although the pale warm pink color is more on par with the Alba MAIDEN'S BLUSH) and THE PILGRIM looks like a Tea-Noisette (the light green foliage, climbing canes, delicate yellow flowers and Tea Rose fragrance are the selling points). Then there is WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE 2000, which has flowers that are dead ringers for a highly developed Gallica combined with a short, spreading shrub. It is of my opinion that what David Austin is really trying to achieve is a class of remontant Centifolias. These are the "Old Rose Hybrids" he seems to favor. The flower form is more globular (i.e. cabbage like) than the quartered, cupped or semi-double formation found with so many of the Old Garden Roses. Growth habit is medium in height and bushy to slightly spreading in habit. Remontancy is continuous, similar to a Floribunda or a shrub rose like BELINDA'S DREAM. Disease resistance is steadily improving, with THE MAYFLOWER representing a true success in this area. Fragrance is strong and intense. Among his "Old Rose Hybrids" he seems to favor bouquets dominated by the classic Damask scent, but as we've seen isn't adverse to putting out a myrrh scented rose. All these factors add up to what I think David Austin is trying to achieve in his breeding programs. BTW, speaking of Myrrh - I hate it. The scent first appeared among David Austin's roses with the once blooming CONSTANCE SPRY, which is the result of a cross between BELLE ISIS (Gallica) x DAINTY MAID (Floribunda). I've been told it's strong myrrh fragrance is sweeter than most, but I really can't say for sure because I don't grow once bloomers. I do have a few of his other myrrh scented roses and can report with a degree of certainty that the fragrance mix varies considerably. For example, I really like TAMORA's fragrance, which is a blend of fruit and myrrh. Others not-so-much. Frankly I won't buy a myrrh scented "Austin" until I get a chance to smell it first. Just my 2 cents worth. Best wishes, Patrick

It is true. The gallardia is toast and needs to be tossed. Your soil appears to be compacted and gallardia needs freely draining soil. This means loose soil with tiny air pockets. If there is a Lowe's near you they sell bagged soil conditioner for less than $4. This is what most compacted soil needs as it contains small pieces of pine bark that keeps the soil from packing down again. It gets mixed into the top 6 inches of the soil after you have turned and loosened it with the garden fork or with a shovel. It is likely that tha water you gave it was more than it needed, but not lossening the soil was probably the biggest problem. A free soil test from your county agrigcultural agent would be a great place to start with any amendments that you may need. If I don't have a soil test and can't wait for one, I just use soil conditioner, a little lime, and bagged dry cow compost in small amounts dug thoroughly into the soil. You may not need lime if your soil is not acidic. I never fertilize new transplants. It is best to let them begin to grow slowly into their new soil. Most of us have made the same mistakes as you and learned from our mistakes. Thats why this forum is so helpful. Once you get the area dug and replanted, be sure to mulch, with shredded pine bark mulch if it is available. This mulch will break down and improve your soil also.

Quinn, I wrote to the owner yesterday..He replied saying he's been having problems with that site. He also asked which products I was interested in ordering. I wish I knew more about Eleanor's VF-11, then make a decision whether or not to buy it. Quinn, like I said, in the 90's I was a dedicated Logees customer. I still have quite a few of their plants. The only problem back then was their shipping prices. 7 plants for 11.00..But shipping costs didn't stop me from ordering either..lol Then, around 1999-2000, I placed an order. What a disappointment! First, they decreased pot sizes from 4" to 2 1/4"..but, worse, while reducing size, they increased prices AND shipping. I order quite a bit, and know what shipping costs should be. They went overboard. Still, as long as they sent decent plants I figured it was worth it..Then everything went downhill. I placed an order, including a variegated lemon tree..Quinn, the so-called citrus was no larger than 2" and was gone within days..soil was dry from its shipping ride, not wrapped properly. Still 2"!! Besides, it was an ungrafted seedling. They didn't mention that. For the price, I was expecting, at the least, a small but grafted citrus. There were other plants that were dead upon arrival..even ST couldn't save them. The last order included an Acalypha. A DEAD Acalypha. This time I phoned customer service. The woman was very nice, helpful. She must have read over previous orders because she said, 'I certainly will replace your plant, we don't want to lose you as a customer.' And she did..the second Acalypha was gorgeous. Why didn't they send the second plant in the first place? So, after $150+ later, I never again ordered from Logees. There are too many nurseries around that ship big, healthy plants. I admit, some have a tendency to up S&H, but considering prices and sizes of plants, (most 4"ers) it's worth it. I don't want to down Logees..Perhaps they're sending larger plants and packing securely..It's been years since my last order, so I can't say. As long as consumers are satisfied with their purchases, that's all that matters. Then again, two people on the Fragrant forum who recently ordered from Logees complained their plants were loaded with insects. Quinn, I'm not going to say I've never killed a plant, but if I receive a new plant that's dead or half-dead, I can't take the blame. Toni PS. If you're still interested in the small, hanging baskets, email the owner. I'll let you know how it goes.

From what you're describing, I suspect the hard water is to blame. Phosphates used to work really well, but wreaked havoc on the environment. We already have enough problems with run off into the Pacific; don't need to add even more fertilizer. These days, dishwashing detergents rely on enzymes to break down food residue, and rely on small amounts of surfactants (i.e. soap) to rinse things off. That can work even better than the old type of detergent. But it generally isn't as effective the harder the water is. You probably notice that when showing too. You need more soap to wash, and then when you rinse the soap doesn't really want to come off. I live in a part of the Bay Area that is fortunate enough to get Hetch Hetchy water. So, our water is exceptionally soft. That would explain the different experiences. If you don't want to move a few miles North, your best bet is getting a water softener. Alternatively, keep experimenting with different detergents. Maybe you'll find one that works better in your situation. And definitely make sure to use rinse aid. With hard water you have to. It's the same problem as with showering. The water can't wash off everything. And in the case of a dishwasher, this is water that still has some food particles. So, you'll see residue when things dry