Root Pruning Finished
dieseler
8 years ago
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ottawan_z5a
8 years ago
fig_insanity Z7b E TN
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Root pruning - try to keep the larger roots
Comments (3)No, not correct. On an established plant, the big roots serve mainly for stability and as connection points for the smaller, hairlike and near microscopic roots that do all the heavy lifting for the plant in terms of nutrient/gas/liquid absorption. That said, you may still want some thicker ones for pure stability in the pot for windy days if outside. If in doubt, just cut off the bottom 1/3, trim the sides in so they're well away from the inner pot wall, fan the remaining roots out radially like spokes on a wheel if staring straight down at the plant, then set it on top of the "volcano" mound of new Gritty in the pot. Add the remaining gritty methodically so you fill in as many gaps or potential gaps as possible. Use a wood BBQ skewer or plastic fork to gently poke mix into and among the fanned out roots. If you see a few large, old gnarled roots, it is actually a healthy practice to cut those out as long as removing those won't make your plant topple....See MoreRoot Pruning Japanese Maples
Comments (15)@michelerossi Could I therefore already carry out a repotting with pruning of the roots? The answer isn't an easy yes or no. Obviously, you can do whatever you want when you want, but that isn't always the best approach. If I had to make the decision, I would weigh a number of factors, the plant's current level of vitality, light levels, current temperatures, and whether of not I felt it was an emergency situation (whether the plant is likely or unlikely to survive (w/o repotting) until the most appropriate time to repot. You might also have other factors like your schedule or commitments to consider. If the plant is not in danger of succumbing to root rot or the congestion, I'd definitely wait until the optimum time relative to your geography and weather. Is there no need for me to wait for June as you generally indicated? It's not a matter of hard, fast rules re the timing. Instead of "can I" or "should I" repot earlier than June, the question should be what's best for the plant. In our previous discussions I outlined why repotting close to the summer solstice is best. The plant will respond most enthusiastically and recover faster when days are longest/brightest and when the plant's level of reserve energy is at or near peak. Even if the plant is doing poorly now and you feel its level of vitality won't increase between now and mid-June, I'd still wait. I think the only thing that would make me repot now (here in MI) would be if I determined the plant to have a fungal root infection. Can I proceed now even if the plant has some signs of distress as you can see from the bare lower branches (the fourth photo) or should I wait for it to recover in spring? I think I pretty much answered this question in what I wrote above. *********************************************************************************** @kitasei Should I be root pruning my yuzu trees like this?? They are in large pots. When I suggest what you should or shouldn't do, it's always from the perspective of 'what is best for the plant'. Root congestion is a far more insidious robber of growth, vitality, and the plant's ability to defend itself, than 99% of growers realize. Potting up to a larger pot is not an effective strategy for managing roots because there will always be congestion at the center of the root mass. A full repot which includes bare rooting, root pruning, and a change of grow medium completely relieves root congestion and allows the plant to return to its normal rate of growth, level of vitality, and ability to defend itself (against disease pathogens and insect herbivory). A tree that is regularly repotted will normally grow 5-10x faster and exhibit a higher level of vitality, eye appeal, and it will be more productive. If you're objective is to provide your tree with the best opportunity to maximize its genetic potential, repotting (full repots) are essential to that end. Root congestion is limiting and will always hold a plant back. The best time to repot citrus is in the early spring - just before you notice the plant is getting serious about its spring push brought on by warmer temps and brighter/ longer days. Make sure you understand how to go about the repotting process before you dive in head first. Most loss of viability subsequent to repotting is due to overlooking something that seems minor but is important. One important factor is, the roots need to be continually wet during the process. Al...See Moreroot pruning, root regeneration, and future stability
Comments (9)In general, the bigger the tree, the more likely root pruning has been used. 2 and 3" stock is barely large enough to qualify...the only root pruning that has been done was in production of the liner used as a transplant to be grown on and harvested ata certain size. Start getting into 5 and6" stock, and larger, specifically with direct spade where the spader has his own field, and there you see much more root pruning. Fancy term for what amounts to transolantung a tree a time or two around your iwn field...or simply dropping the spade blades and retracting them without lifting the tree. As to the original question, eventually the root system will develop the primary, secondary, tertiary, etc. roots become the anchoring system for a large tree. This is rarely talked about because what is talked about us the much more fibrous root system thst is developed in the short term...which is what you want to create a plant more likely to survive a transplant. But every time you handle something, you add to the cost. So people create a narrative that they feel explains why they do what they do. A lot of nursery growers are better at explaining what they do in technical terms (what they care about) than what it means for you in practical terms (what you care about)....See Moreoverwintering/pruning/root pruning
Comments (21)I think it would be smart to take a branch cutting and root it in new clean soil. this will give new roots and I believe a much better chance to live over the winter. if done properly it should be done with no new bugs being brought into the house. the plant can then be grown all winter and put outside in the spring as a very big transplant. the problem with keeping old plants is that the roots get old and lose their health. then the plant goes down hill. the old plant usually bring in all kinds of bugs that go wild indoors etc. all this can be avoided with some care....See Moredieseler
8 years agoHere are the 2 pictures i managed to take before camera quit as i wanted to show finished root prune but can explain what i been doing all these years.
First i lay pot on side and pull fig tree out i wanted to set it on the smaller black pot so as not to have to bend down so much but it was to heavy to lift so i prune on floor.
I use that recip saw with wood pruning blade and cut at least 5-7 inches off bottom as these were in 30g pots smaller pots would have been less.
Then i make wedge cuts as shown in 1st picture.
In 2nd picture i was about to slice down the outside of each wedge where the saw sits thats when camera quit .
The top of each wedge is also sliced to the fig trunk.
Plant was then fitted back into pot and filled .
Canopy gets pruned as well afterwards.
This is what i been doing for long time and works for me just not the fun part of growing figs in cold climate in containers.
Martin
myermike_1micha
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agodieseler
8 years agodieseler
3 years agoMeyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agojojosplants2020
3 years agodieseler
3 years agojojosplants2020
3 years agojojosplants2020
3 years agodieseler
3 years agojojosplants2020
3 years agodieseler
3 years ago
tropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
3 years agojojosplants2020
3 years agojojosplants2020
3 years ago
Monyet
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoI am still using it the old fashion way, using tools 40 some years old. They cut roots cleanly.
On average, I only repot figs 4 or 5 yearly. Less than an hour per tree.
dieseler
3 years agojojosplants2020
3 years agoMonyet
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agojojosplants2020
3 years ago
bluemoonlight
3 years agofig_insanity Z7b E TN
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agobluemoonlight
3 years agofig_insanity Z7b E TN
3 years agobluemoonlight
3 years agoMonyet
3 years agojojosplants2020
3 years agoMonyet
3 years agojojosplants2020
3 years agoMonyet
3 years ago
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dieselerOriginal Author