Textured Wallpaper over kitchen tile reno - How To?
Sakeena R
8 years ago
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Wendy
8 years agoWendy
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
wallpaper in the kitchen? I need help.
Comments (20)I had tin tiles in a bathroom in my old house. They were ugly and rusted, but I painted them anyway. Made a HUGE difference and lasted several years! I think we used epoxy paint, but it was a long time ago. I'm sure a paint dealer would sell you the right stuff. It was not hard at all...just like ordinary painting, looked flawless and there were no brushmarks at all...had a high gloss, mirror finish! Easy to keep clean, too. As for wallpaper, I love the stuff. I have it everywhere! I have vinyl type in my kitchen, where I do a LOT of cooking, and it washes easily and well. I have it in my main bathroom, too, and despite all the steam four of us could put it through every day for the past 9 years, it still looks terrific. And those walls were (still are) awful underneath the paper. I think paintable wallpaper is a good suggestion, but why not just use wallpaper and eliminate one process? You will always see the seams on wallpaper, paintable or not, but done correctly, printed wallpaper seams are almost invisible - IMO, they are far less visible on printed than they are on paintable wallpaper. If you didn't notice the bad walls under the old paper, you probably won't be able to see the bad walls under new paper, either. I also think 5 years is not long enough for such an expensive investment as good wallpaper. But, then, I'm not much for change in my house. And whatever paper you use, be sure you size it first!...See MoreHow many of you have wallpaper in the kitchen?
Comments (19)"A couple of years ago they were talking about manufacturing a wallpaper which could very easily be peeled off when you're ready to re-decorate." That's Sherwin-Williams EasyChange wallpaper. Haven't used it but may well do so here once the walls are de-textured (I hate textured walls to begin with and PO did a crap job to boot). I think there are some really nice patterns in that line, ranging from very modern prints to classic florals and toiles - others may of course disagree. IMO many people dislike wallpaper because of a backlash from the overuse of faddish papers like the proverbial 1980s beribboned geese and country plaids LOL or giant orange-and-green flowers from the 70s rather than classic patterns or from the hassle of removing improperly applied paper. I really like wallpaper as long as a) it's not used to excess unless the house's architecture is suited to it, b) the scale and style of the paper is suited to the space it's in (for instance, a very large room with high ceilings might need a paper with a great deal of "negative space" to avoid being overpowering, but in a little powder room you can get away with a wowzer dense print that would overwhelm in larger doses) b) it's not the cheap, shiny vinyl junk. But then I'm not the fickle type who wants to change colors every other year - those folks are probably better suited to just paint....See MorePaint over wallpaper?
Comments (18)Wow, Cindi, sounds like a bit of a learning experience. The learning curve is never fun, the pleasure you get after you're up it is really just relief from the pain! Welcome to the club of learning the hard way (I belong to the more exclusive chapter where we have to learn the hard way twice before anything sinks in). If this isn't turning out so well, you might be interested in learning to patch drywall... well, maybe not really. I am going to chime in on the paper tiger to say that no matter how many pinpricks you make, from my experience they don't help much anyway. I use a spray bottle of water (and a towel or two to catch the drips) to soak the glue, which I get at most effectively in one of two ways: either I peel away from one corner or the top edge and spray into the backing, or I rip off the paper surface and then the backing alone absorbs the water quite readily. They key is to wait long enough for the glue to soften so that it comes off easily with gentle scraper use. But my spray bottle gets very little water in through the holes made by the paper tiger. If you couldn't get in behind to get a start any other way, it might be worth it. And I have read where someone said to make so many holes that the paper is hardly recognizable. That might be the trick. And yes, it does damage the wall a bit. As I was just doing a border with it, that wasn't much sweat to fix, but would be annoying on a whole wall. In addition, I would have to say that painting over wallpaper is almost always the wrong thing to do, so kudos to you for trying. But don't over-punish yourself; for the rest of the wall you could always try painting over, and leave full removal for the next owner of your home. KarinL...See MoreReno fan - texturing over wallpaper?
Comments (3)Sure thing. You prime it with oil-based primer. (Kilz is my choice, but Zinsser is also good.) You pay special attention to prime the seams, or any nail holes, etc. The primer is to help block the moisture of the drywall mud and paint from penetrating through the paper and possibly lifting it. When the primer is dry, you do a "skim coat" of drywall mud, starting at the seams. The primer helps give the wall a "tooth" for the mud to stick to. If you don't prime the walls, the wallpaper is too smooth to texture over, and also may have hidden holes or seams where the moisture of the drywall mud can possibly cause bubbling of the paper. Drywall mud is cheap and fairly easy to work with, once you get the hang of it. All I do is get a large drywall mud knife (sort of looks like a large scraper) and get a little mud on it, then gently drag it across the walls and smooth it out. The grit of the primer helps the mud to stick, and then you just sort of drag and smooth. I use the standard plastic drywall mud basin with a metal scraping edge, and scrape the edges of the blade, apply mud, drag and smooth, and repeat until the texture covers the wall. The good thing about drywall mud is if you mess up, you can just scrape it off the wall and try again, which is how I learned to texture in my last house. It's really very easy, though. I always start with the seams, as I want those completely covered, and then work out from there. When the skim coat of texture is dry, you just prime and paint. The companies that do this professionally in my area charge anywhere from $250-$500 per room to do this treatment. Since $250 is usually double my entire decorating budget for a bathroom, I'd rather just learn how to do it myself! For 5 years and 2 different houses, this technique has served us well. The only time I would NOT do it this way is if the wallpaper was not installed well, had lifting seams, etc. I'd definitely want it removed, in that case. In this house, NOTHING had been touched since the original build in '82. The wallpaper was original to the build, applied over raw drywall, and was even behind the baseboards and shower. That wallpaper would *not* have come down without tearing up the drywall something awful! Hope this helps!...See MoreSakeena R
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