Please review my tile choices.
So I thought I had the tile picked out, but then DH really expressed concern over having too many grout lines, so that led to a whole bunch of changes, including eliminating my favorite hex tile flooring. Good news is that construction is under way and they are set to tile this coming week. My goal with this bathroom is to look transitional (the other bathroom is more traditional so I do not want to go so modern that the two baths do not look like they belong in the same house).So here is my current plan, tell me what you think!
Here is the layout. The shower is 3x4' and will have a frameless glass shower door. There will NOT be a pony wall between the vanity and shower.
Here is the shower tile: Mapisa Scotland White in 12x24"
It is difficult to tell from the link but the tile has some gray lines and almost some light blue/green and brown. But the tile has a very subtle texture to it so it is difficult to tell. I like the way the brown picks up the wood in the vanity. Also the blue/green gives me so direction for paint color and accent tile.
I am considering running the shower tile behind the vanity (sorta to form an L-shape). One of the guys doing the work sorta looked confused when I told him this, considering the vanity would cover most of the wall. Thoughts??
The shower base will be an enamel coated cast iron base -- the Kohler Purist in White.
Here is the vanity:
It is the 32" Godmogon in Walnut effect. I like the floating aspect because it will help in such a small space. Also the more traditional door style helps to keep it from looking too modern. The faucet I am leaning towards (not the one shown above) is the Hansgrohe Talis C. For the shower faucet, the plumbers have already installed a Moen posi-temp valve, AND I want a larger, rainhead style shower head, so I think my best option is the Moen Fina. These two fixtures are a little more modern than I wanted, but not finding any great transitional ones. (My other bath has Moen Kingsley in Antique Bronze).
Now as an accent tile, I was considering using this mosaic tile as a backsplash behind the vanity and to line a 12x24" shower niche. It picks up the gray and blue/green in the tile. Also the white in the shower base, tile, toilet and sink. I would have LOVED to use a green marble but we are a family with two small children and I do not need nor want the hassle that comes with marble tile. :(
Two chrome scones will be above the vanity on either side of the beveled mirrored (no frame) recessed medicine cabinet that is 20x26.
For the flooring, my plan was to go with 13x13 tiles in Jamaica Gray. I do not love them anywhere near as much as the hex tile above BUT I was afraid of too much going on in such a small space and thought a plain gray would sorta just blend in and disappear. However, now I am wondering if I should try to put the large shower tiles also on the floor. Thoughts?
The toilet will be a Delta Riosa, American Standard Clean or Kohler Persuade - all skirted small space toilets. Above the toilet will be two Godmorgon Walnut Storage Cabinets.
I think that is about it. Any thoughts, comments would be appreciated. DH pretty much thinks anything will look great if it means no more decisions to make or shopping outings. TIA!
Comments (47)
cplover
8 years agocplover
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Please critique my choices
Comments (17)You've chosen beautiful high quality fixtures and accessories. I really love the tub splash guard door you found in the photo group "Powder Room". I've read on this forum that those who used that option have been really happy with it. I'm definitely doing Toto toilets too. Do you need to pick out light fixtures too? That's taking me a while. I think I saw some very contemporary black and white sinks while I was web surfing. It's true the black will be hard to clean but you would get a really cool look from black and white and the toothpaste and soap would not show as much. Go for it with your selections. You have great design taste! I have Jerusalem Gold as my kitchen backsplash and I chose not to seal it thinking it would change the color and make it shiny. My husband just spattered a lot of red wine on it. When he cleaned it -- admittedly accidentally with pure bleach from a spray bottle -- he wore a hole in the tile. It just ate away where he rubbed. I think you can find here or in the Kitchen Forum how to seal it correctly so stains won't soak in like the red wine did....See MorePlease review my system choice for Furnace and Hot Water Heater
Comments (18)First question, they go hand in hand somewhat. You see you need to get the bonnet temp dispersed from the furnace to hit recommended temp rise out of the furnace to obtain efficiency and expected life of unit. At the same time if you add more than required heat runs to do this, the room temps will swing horribly causing discomfort. Although you may wish to have additional heat runs to deliver airflow at a lower CFM, with low FPM at the diffusers which result in a quieter operating system. At the same time depending where the registers are placed, certain velocities may be required for the air flow to efficiently get to the areas that need the conditioned air. So you see, it takes an experienced person to weigh all the factors to assure a proper balance to end up with a great system, versus what most people end up with or settle for. Going beyond a 2-stage system,, with a system that precisely varies the input and blower speeds is always an advantage. The benefits is that it works at the capacity required which always changes because indoor and outdoor conditions are constantly different. As we all know a standard furnace is like a car in the hands of a teenager, either always on the gas or the brake. The goal of a great heating system is to be seen and not heard. The variable systems will deliver at a required rate to match conditions with the results being limited temp swings which equates to improved fuel utilization and comfort. A quick answer on your 135 question, if all takeoffs were 6" and the correct amount were installed in the space, to match room loads, you would have about 21....See MorePlease review my choice of colors in my remodeled kitchen
Comments (29)The backsplash and floor look great, but when I look back at your original photos and compare them to the new ones I'm struck by how different the tones look on my monitor; which leads me to be very reluctant to make any advice about color based on what it looks like on a computer. If there's a Benjamin Moore store near you, you can take advantage of a free sample coupon valid through June 30. (Thank you, GW'er kathec!) It's a good size sample (they gave me a 15.75 oz can) and they'll mix it in any color. That would give you a chance to try one of your leading contenders for free and see how it looks on your wall in your lighting. Here is a link that might be useful: Benjamin Moore Coupon...See Moreplease review my plan for new condo
Comments (366)What did you mean by: 'because unlike to chop close to garbage as well'? Is there an easy way to tell me what would be your organize system below your island? Will you have drawers? Cabinets with doors? I think you mentioned something about open shelves, is it beside the cook top or below the island? Another option for your robes if you find them far to get them you could reserve an 8" empty space (or so) beside the wall where the shower is and put hooks there. The only think is that if you have more than one hook, you would have to take the clothe on the first hook to reach the second clothe: I think even if your husband is a big guy, you could make your WIC 7'2 3/4" wide and it would still be fine. In that case, your office would be 6'6". But it would not allow for 6'0" double door for your entrance closet though. I think you need about 6'8" wide closet to put 6'0" with a door frame closet around it (that would need to be check with your contractor). However there are standard doors 32" wide or I think you can get custom made doors but they are more expensive. Note that you could make your office 6'6" and your entrance closet a little longer to allow for 6'0" double and its frame around it. The few extra inches stolen from the WIC would still be ok to hang regular clothes ... or put your robes there as already suggested. EDIT: Since you need to make your entrance closet longer to be able to get wider doors, you could keep the closet as 7'4" as you had originally....See Morecplover
8 years ago
mayflowers
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agocplover
8 years agocplover
8 years agomayflowers
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoWalnut usually isn't paired with much other pattern. Does it look exactly like the photo or is there more grain? By tiling that wall, it divides the room diagonally with paint on the short wall near the vanity and around the toilet and tile in the other triangle. But if you do tile that wall, I'd leave out the glass mosaic.
The tile has a strong linear pattern. I would run it opposite of the walnut grain. Now that I've found this photo of the Mapisa, I'm not sure the square mosaic is the best shape. I also prefer just one or two rows of the square mosaics between field tile to avoid a checkerboard effect.
Which brings to mind this beautiful tile treatment, where a subtle matchstick mosaic tile is sandwiched between large format floor-type tile. That mosiac would be pretty inside a niche too. It's not too different than your original wainscot and tile idea. You could do a mosaic that brought in a little pale blue or blue-green and white.
New Construction Family Home · More Infocplover thanked mayflowerscplover
8 years agocplover
8 years agocplover
8 years agomayflowers
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoI'm not a tiler but I think it could be like this idea where you have field tile above and below the accent tile.That solves the 3-4" problem, which now that you mention it, you would want to tile there. I think the accent tile would need to continue through the shower. This is quite pretty with only one row of the mosaic. You could still tile your niche if you use a light touch for your accent row. You'd continue it around to the right wall. I think that makes the most sense.
Dream Room 2014 · More InfoI'm thinking of using this Walker Zanger Villa d' Oro Calacatta marble mosaic in my kitchen behind my range. The 1/2" tiles are cubes so there's not much grout involved. I think a mosaic of small marble pieces would be more forgiving of etching than a larger marble tile. Doesn't sealing take care of staining?
The peachy color on their photo is actually cream.
Villa d'Oro Mosaic in Crema · More Infocplover
8 years agoMayflowers - you seem to be always reading my mind. I was just about to post this below photo of another GWer's bathroom when I saw your above post!
cplover
8 years agomayflowers
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agocplover
8 years agoUser
8 years agocplover - I like all your choices.
My favorite part of my bathroom remodel is the mosaic tile I put on the vanity wall and in my shower, including the niche. If you love something, go with it. :)
I did decide to do a 2" matching white quartz backsplash on my vanity because I didn't want the grout from the small tiles touching my actual countertop. One year later and no regrets.
I love recycled glass and the three pieces sitting on my counter is what inspired my entire design! I always say, if you design spaces with things you love, then you can't go wrong. it's your space, you enjoy it.
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User
8 years agobrianbeth2
8 years agocplover
8 years agocplover
8 years agomayflowers
8 years agomayflowers
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoFound this in my Ideabook. That would be a pretty way to use your large tile and mosaic. For the size of your vanity, you wouldn't be losing much of the look to the counter-mount faucet.
Carriage Lane Design Build /Carly Nemtean · More InfoAnd this. Pretend the matchstick tile is your large tile. The lines run opposite of the vanity's. There's your 12" floor tiles too!
Step up to Quality of Life · More Infocplover thanked mayflowerscplover
8 years agocplover
8 years agomayflowers
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoWith the side wall tiled, you don't have to worry about repainting it or getting splash over there. Initially I thought it would divide the room diagonally, but I thought you were going to the ceiling with tile, continuing from the shower. I think you can just do the Mapisa as backsplash. You have a waterfall faucet, mirror, and sconces for sparkle, tile for texture, and paint for color. But, how is floor tile edged as a backsplash? You don't want to use a metal Schluter strip.
I was planning on running a vertical mosaic through my shower fixtures when I decided that tiling inside the niche was enough, especially if I used a large niche. I do like the horizontal niches, and it would look nice with your vertical tile. But you can also see that running everything horizontally creates a gentle flow. It depends on how quiet you want the room to be.
Small Space Bathroom · More Info
But I couldn't give up the idea of having a little something on the fixture wall to look at while showering, so I thought about adding a single row of mosiacs along with the mosaic niche.
Contemporary Northwest Bathroom · More InfoWith your white and clear glass mosaic, it would provide a little more sparkle without adding much color.
User
8 years agoUser
8 years agobrianbeth2 - here are a couple more pics to show you the outcome.
We had CARPET in the bathroom (before) hahahahaha
With the vanity being wood, I had to add the wood shelf and stool to tie it all together...
I could NOT afford a new tub so for now, we just added some matching tile around the tub. Someday I want to rip it out and get a freestanding tub....
Bad pic - but you get the idea...
cplover
8 years agocplover
8 years agokudzu9
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoScrews for brackets go through tile all the time and so does plumbing. On my last remodel I had 8 holes for plumbing through the large format tiles within the shower, 6 holes through the large format tiles for the two wall mount faucets on the backsplash, 2 cutouts for the backsplash receptacles, 3 holes for the bathtub surround, and four screws through the tile for the shower wall brackets. All the holes were cut before the tile went in place, and the screw holes were drilled afterwards. It looks great. Unless he is planning to do the tiling himself, and he's not competent, it should be no problem. Here's the backsplash:
mayflowers
8 years agocplover
8 years agokudzu9
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agocplover
8 years agokudzu9
8 years agocplover
8 years agokudzu9
8 years agomayflowers
8 years agomayflowers
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoHere they've just used a matching trim tile. You could do it in white or pick up the soft gray/blue/green color from the tile. I wonder why he didn't suggest that. I'm more convinced than before that you don't see Schluter along the top of a backsplash.
peaceful master bedroom and bahroom · More InfoFlat pencil liner.
kudzu9
8 years agoI'm not a big fan of Schluter-type strips either. On our two bath remodels, the tile setter simply used a grinder with super fine grits to polish the edges of the porcelain tiles. Even though the color of the clay body is not identical to the surface of the tile, I prefer this to a metal strip.
cplover
8 years agokudzu9
8 years agochispa
8 years ago
mayflowers