Grain free dog food
10 years ago
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Canned grain-free cat food w/o veggies
Comments (28)I buy Merrick 96% meat canned food to add to the dried food my dogs eat, so seeing your need for a mostly meat food for cats caught my eye. I pay $2 a can for 13 oz or so at our bargain-basement independent pet food store. It is 9 % crude protein, 7 % crude fat, 1.2 % crude fiber, 78% moisture. It does not have the added taurine that cats need, though their cat food does have it. I have no idea what the cat food costs. You might want to look into it, though. I see it does have Guar and carrageenan, though. Merrick Before Grain Salmon Canned Cat Food Ingredients Salmon, Water for Processing, Whitefish, Dried Egg, Yeast Extract, Glycine, Calcium Carbonate, Sodium Phosphate, Potassium Chloride, Salt, Guar, Choline Chloride, Taurine, Carageenan, Mixed Tocopherols, Vitamin E Supplement, Zinc Amino Acid Complex, Iron Amino Acid Complex, Manganese Amino Acid Complex, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Copper Amino Acid Complex, d-Calcium Pantothenate, Vitamin A Acetate, Niacin, Lecithin, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Riboflavin Supplement, Folic Acid, Ethylenediamine Dihydriodide, Cobalt Glucoheptanate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Biotin, Thiamine Mononitrate, Sodium Selenite Guaranteed Analysis Crude Protein (min.) 10.00% Crude Fat (min.) 4.50% Crude Fiber (max.) 1.40% Moisture (max.) 78.00% Here is a link that might be useful: Merrick...See Moredry food for cats that can't eat dry food ;)
Comments (11)Lukkiirish, the problems with your cats was not due to wet feeding. Dry food is made to shatter IF the cat bites down on it. Of course, when it does, it's nothing but mealy grit that easily lodges in the gingiva. This leads to periodontitis, resorption, and other painful conditions. The only way to care for cat teeth at home is to brush them. Your claim that dry food is good for feline oral health is no different to claiming that eating saltines will clean your own teeth. If you know the anatomy of a cat's mouth, you can see that there are no chewing surfaces, ie., the molars are high on the outside and low on the inside near the tongue. This facilitates shearing action, which, rather than chewing, is what a cat's mouth is evolved to do. Chewing animals have flatter molar surfaces, so that food can be kept in place for chewing. Imagine the action of a mortar and pestle. The tool is designed to hold stuff in place for grinding. That's what your teeth are made for. Cat teeth are shaped to provide a scissor-like action. So, on that alone, you can understand why dry food is useless for feline oral health. Next, dry food is by nature very high in carbohydrates. It must be, since the plant matter is needed to glue the meat meal grit into kibbles. If you're reading labels, good-but if you're not translating them, then you have no idea what you're feeding your cats. Any claims on dry food labels of "50% protein" are utter hogwash. Firstly, any plant matter that is useful protein in any other animal feeds is also considered useful protein in cat food, despite the fact that cats cannot utilise plant protein. You need to know how much animal protein is in the mix, and manufacturers are not always going to tell you that if you call them. Secondly, you need to calculate dry weight to get a grasp of how much of ANY protein is in the mix. If you're lucky enough to get facts from the manufacturer, then you still do the maths. The best dry food on the market is probably less than 20% animal protein, which is grossly insufficient for obligate carnivores. Then you need to consider that cats are not particularly interested in drinking water. Everyone claims that "my cat drinks plenty of water!" But no one can tell you how much water "plenty" is! A cat's natural diet is prey, which is about 70%-80% water. So is wet food! Dry food? Under 10% water. Cats will drink, but are not thirst-driven, so are unable to know if they're getting enough water to function. The dry-fed cat will walk away from the water dish long before it has consumed sufficient water. As a result, dry-fed cats have undue strain on kidney function, digestion, urinary function, and who knows what else because they are always dehydrated. Dry-fed cats are also far more likely to be obese and to develop diabetes and hypertension. Oh, and let's not forget how many dry-fed cats end up with an excess of urinary crystals or even blockages! This is almost always due to dry feeding, which leads to concentrated, alkaline urine. Cats need the sufficiency of wet food fluid intake in order to reduce urine's concentration and to flush out crystals. The higher animal protein in wet food helps to maintain appropriate urine acidity. Another interesting thing is that so many people are completely hoodwinked by the"grain-free" movement! It doesn't matter! Grain-free does NOT equate carbohydrate-free! Grains are often primary suspects in food allergies. The grain-free bandwagon needs to be halted for the sake of our cats. Grain-free dry foods contain as much carbohydrate as do grained foods. You'll frequently see claims that cats in the wild will eat the stomach contents of their prey, but this is not fact. Cats are not keen on stomach acids needed for plant breakdown and carefully avoid eating any part of prey digestive tracts. I suppose that laboratory cats who are only fed digestive tracts will consume them in hope of avoiding starvation, but not cats in more normal surroundings. Lastly, I'm always hearing from people who claim to have cats who were dry-fed only, and lived to be 32 and never had a problem. Well, genetics can make some cats lucky enough to slip past troubles, but these are very much the minority. I also suspect that some of the owners were lying about the cats' longevity, or the cats had outdoors access so supplemented their dry food with nice juicy prey. It is also likely that the cats were never taken to the vet so any problems they may have had were never diagnosed. It's like the centenarian who, when asked the secret to his long life, answers " booze, cigars, and unrestrained sex!". Does that mean that EVERYONE should live like that in order to become a centenarian? Of course not. I see no problem with using dry food in place of cat treats. It's less expensive. Ten to twenty pieces of dry food in a day are amazing as training rewards. But there is no real benefit to dry feeding....See MoreDog Food? So many choices!
Comments (18)Saltidawg, during my research on the subject, long ago when preparing to begin a home cooked diet, I learned that the correct proportion is 1 1/2 teaspoons of calcium per 6 cups meat. I found this information from several sources, but I couldn't name them now. It was awhile ago. For instance if you cooked 12 cups of meat, you would add 3 teaspoons of powdered calcium or baked ground eggshell. As far as the ratio of phosphorous to calcium: it is easy to make this more complicated than it needs to be. Phosphorus is found in the meat and tissues of an animal while calcium is found in the skeleton. If you follow the equation: 1 1/2 teaspoons of calcium to 6 cups of meat (aka the phosphorus found in 6 cups of meat) you will have the correct proportion. If meat is the primary main ingredient, as it should be when feeding a carnivore, the phosphorus content of your food is taken care of. The key is to add calcium in the right proportion to the phosphorus in the meat. Those feeding a raw prey diet just feed the entire animal, for instance a whole chicken, and the bones and meat, aka calcium and phosphorus, are in correct proportion naturally. Those of us cooking dog food have two choices - either add powdered calcium to the meat we cook to replace the bones, or use a pressure cooker to cook an entire chicken, bones and all, being sure that the bones are cooked to the point they crumble apart when touched with a fork. For me, both feeding raw chickens or using a pressure cooker seem fraught with complications and dangers (although many choose these options with success.) I hope this helps. Also the proportion of every single meal need not be exactly in proportion. It is a guideline. Because, after all, a carnivore doesn't always eat the entire carcass of every animal he kills or scavenges. If you consistently fed meals lacking in enough calcium, eventually you would probably have nutritional problems. I hope this helps....See Morewhat dog food would work?
Comments (20)Hmm, I said above, "That said, a few grains are tougher to digest and generally of lesser nutritional value." I'm confused. Not feeding a "grain free" food does not suggest at all feeding corn as an ingredient. Corn is typically considered difficult to digest by a dog - and i believe by humans also. I would think it is a good idea to not feed any ingredient that your dog is allergic to. Corn is but one of many that may be an issue. The food that includes some corn as an ingredient may be fine for someone elses's dog and something your dog is fine with may cause another dog serious problems. For decades I fed a highly respected holistic food from Solid Gold. It was and is not "grain free" nor does it contain corn. The Tufts study I linked to, as I said, "Here is but a sample of the thoughts of other folks:" is NOT the FDA announcement I cited. PS It is not as common to find that a dogis allergic to a particular grain as it is to find the allergy stems from the choice of protein.If changing food due to an allergy, the conventional wisdom is to change the choice of protein. (There are a couple of proteins that particularly seem to cause allergy problems. PPS Per Merck Vet Manual - Vet School Text: "Corn is not a filler! It actually contains an amazing amount of nutrients, such as protein from corn gluten, natural antioxidants, and fatty acids."...See More- 10 years ago
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