There's loads of knowledgable people here, I learn much from them every day! :) About the goldfish though... this seems to be an immediate issue. The one thing I really suggest (besides what the others have said) is to take sample of pond water up to the local fish/aquarium/pond store and have them test it for you. Many places will do this for free, as you're just starting out you might save yourself that headache of trying to learn about water testing kits. In the long run, however, you should get yourself a testing kit and learn to use it. It is a bit cold there still, fish should still be in hybernation or just coming out of (unless you keep it heated in winter - do you?) sleep. So if they're dying off this early there could be something seriously out of whack. Get your water checked for ammonia, nitrate levels and PH, as well as anything else they can tell you. A PH crash can kill fish quickly, as can large levels of ammonia or lethal gasses (caused by decomposing matter) built up in the substrate. Patial water changes can initially help to balance the pond and reduce stress on the fish, but the reasons for the ill water conditions need to be addressed for a permenant solution. Have you cleaned it out yet? If you have - did the fish begin to die before or after you did? My bet would be either a ph crash or gas build up. I like to drain and clean once a year in the Spring. I do save some of the water and filter media to save back the beneficial bacteria that the others have mentioned. I go out every couple days or once a week to net out the stray leaves and debris that have found their way in, to keep it from builing up on the bottom and creating stagnant gas. Good luck with your pond, I am sure with help here (and freindly terms with your local aquatics retailer) you'll learn pretty quick. Ponding does take a fair amount of work, but is extremely relaxing! Have fun and good luck!

You post your message, add the picture then hit preview to make it show up. It will not show up til then. Are you using photobucket.com? That seems to be the easiest.

Welcome, and congratulations! Listen, not EVERY rose requires dis budding to mature. Some are perfectly vigorous enough to flower and still grow. However, some definitely are NOT. Many own root Teas, Climbing Teas and particularly yellow Tea-Noisettes and some Chinas can take forever to develop and mature into the plants you expect them to be. Permitting them to flower only slows their development. Weak, stingy growers such as Austin's Dove; many of the earlier gray, brown and green roses; many of the Tea-like earlier HTs can also drag their feet, producing begrudging inches of growth. Permitting them to flower will slow them down greatly, too. Then, you have some more modern climbers, such as Kordes' Rosarium Uetersen, Renae and my Annie Laurie McDowell which will sit and flower like a blooming weed while refusing to climb. If you want to push these to climb, you pinch off the buds, forcing that energy into pushing elongated canes from the plants in their efforts to bloom again. Budding these particular types will speed up their development quite a bit, but they still benefit from dis budding to push growth. Own root versions of them are significantly slower to develop. It's with these that dis budding provides the greatest benefit. It is quite possible your roses won't require dis budding to develop into the plants you desire, in the time frame you have in mind. Whether they will or not, they very likely will mature into what you hope for faster if you don't let them flower. Whether you permit flowering as they desire; permit only some of the flowers to mature and open or simply continue dis budding them until they are the size you want them to be is up to you. Enjoy whatever flowers you want to, but keep in mind that if they are taking longer than you hoped to develop into the plants you expected or desired, removing the flowers to force growth should help you get what you want, closer to when you want it. Kim

I could be wrong about the zone - on a zip code lookup map it tells me 9-10. I am near the coast, and the weather here tends to be much more mild. Those "zones" are pretty broad classifications. Here's a fairly accurate description of where I live: "Salinas, CA climate is mild during summer when temperatures tend to be in the 60's and cool during winter when temperatures tend to be in the 50's. The warmest month of the year is September with an average maximum temperature of 74.60 degrees Fahrenheit, while the coldest month of the year is December with an average minimum temperature of 39.40 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperature variations between night and day tend to be fairly limited during summer with a difference that can reach 19 degrees Fahrenheit, and moderate during winter with an average difference of 22 degrees Fahrenheit. The annual average precipitation at Salinas is 15.12 Inches. Rainfall in is fairly evenly distributed throughout the year. The wettest month of the year is January with an average rainfall of 3.00 Inches." We do get some 90 degree days, but only a handful. I had read the FAQ about blossom drop. . .I don't think too hot is going to be my biggest problem. My neighbor (who's in something like his 60th year of planting tomatoes in his backyard across the street - he's 92) said he usually doesn't even plant until around May 1 because it's not warm enough to really get 'em growing; in his words, "they just sit there and look at ya." Maybe I'm misunderstanding the term "frost date." Is it a technical term, or just the last time that you wake up to frozen stuff around you? Stupid question, I know, but I have a feeling I'm not communicating something correctly. Yes, the plants get direct sun for at least 6-8 hours a day (I need to be a little more scientific about it), but it's been a cold spring - it's been in the 50's all this last week with a high of 63 projected for the next week. On the few hot days we have had, the plants have practically grown before my eyes, but they don't grow much during these chilly times. So. . .I can put in a stake without messing up their little root systems? Thanks, Christopher