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Growing Tomatoes

Ultimate Tomato Growing Manual

8 years ago

Does anyone have a tomato growing "manual" which goes over the rough timeline of getting your tomato plants from seeds to producing plants? I saw in a few other forums that some members had written their own to share with their friends and family. I would love to check them out if anyone else here has?

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Comments (3)

Nitsua
8 years ago
You can find most of the basics and lots of great comprehensive info in the Tomato Growing FAQ section...

Tomato Growing FAQ

Regarding a timeline, there are so many variables, such as growing location, varieties grown and growing conditions (soil structure, weather, disease, etc.) that having a precise "manual" would be difficult.

Roughly, however, 6 to 8 weeks from seed to transplant size, then from there, 60 to 90 days (DTM - Days To Maturity) until plants are producing.
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Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
8 years ago
Not getting into climate , tomato time line is simple. Say you are growing in a controlled environment like a heated greenhouse.

From seeds to first ripe fruit can be anywhere from 90 to 120 days , depending on the variety.

From bud/flower to ripe fruit can be anywhere from 35 days to 50 days, depending on the fruit size and variety.

But if you want to grow them outside , in the nature there are many seasonal and geographic variables. Normally tomato is grown in the frost free window of time during the year in any given location. Even then there are additional requirement : Minimum soil and air temperature. For example in my location it is frost free from the end of March on but it would be too cold until May for tomatoes ( w/out protection). Same goes for the end of season.

So basically the window of time between two frost dates ( Last Frost in spring to First frost in fall) gives you a ball park number as how long a tomato -growing season you will have. Mine is about 7 months in theory but really 5 months in practice. So to extend my season I would start seeds inside 30 to 45 days before I can plant outside. Or buy plants from nurseries.

Sey
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I would suggest it's a bit early to dismiss the supercropping as possible cause of the BER. I agree it's not likely, but one plant without symptoms doesn't necessarily prove the supercropping wasn't at fault. It's possible the control plant had some variable in its favor that made the difference. Of course it's more likely there was some other minor variable that pushed things against the plants with BER. For the aphids I'd say either go biological or get out the big guns. Hardcore pesticides aren't great, but sometimes it's better than a total loss. Oh, and leaving the fruit on can make the BER persist. Each of those fruits represents a major future investment of plant resources. If there isn't enough to go around (a calcium shortage causing BER) the more fruit they're trying to grow the more thinly it's spread and the worse the problem is likely to get. I'd advise removing anything with even a hint of BER. Force the plant to redirect it's resources to areas that aren't already lost causes. It may be time to look for a superior source for nutrition. I've been using Advanced Nutrients for awhile now without trouble. It might work better for you as well.
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Barrie, (Central PA, zone 6a)
8 years ago
I see your in NC. You are fortunate that NC State Univ. has one of the best group of tomato researchers in the nation and a bucketload of information. Many of the better performing new hybrids were developed by Dr. Gardner and Kelly Ivors is exceptional with any known tomato disease. I would get a copy of their tomato production guide.
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