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I see that this is a slow forum, but this is a good question for some that was never answered. A pH meter doesn't actually read acidity, it just reads a voltage or a current that is generated between two probes placed in a liquid. Usually, these two probes are combined into one unit. Less sensitive/accurate probes may have some plastic protective casings but some are Very breakable And expensive! The situation is slightly like trying to read a glass tube thermometer that has slipped in its housing or where the markings have rubbed off. You need the pH buffers, they are usually called 'standards', as reference points to tell you (or the meter) what the voltage represents in pH units. You need at least two different buffers to tell the meter what two voltages refer to. For example you could set the probe in a pH 4.0 buffer and adjust the meter to 4 and then set the probe in a pH 7.0 buffer and adjust the slope; the rate of change in reading, so that the meter now reads 7. You then assume that the probe responds linearly between 4 and 7 which is probably true for a decent probe. The standards are called buffers because they contain a set of chemicals that will maintain its pH even if small amounts of different pH stuff gets mixed in; air containing carbon dioxide which will make carbonic acid when dissolved in the liquid, for example. You continue to need the buffers because the probe may or will get clogged up some or a lot, and its response will change. The settings will need to be adjusted. And finally, the buffers will eventually change too and depending on accuracy needed, require replacement.

Yes, the microbelift is certainly useful for the store. I have no idea about for your pond. But again, just for pH buffering, sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is the perfect thing; can't hurt; cheap. If microbelift was supposed to be mainly for pH buffering, it is probably mainly just sodium bicarbonate anyway. My guess is that plants don't grow as early up north. That might lead to more algae. My lily pads get black spots as they age. I pull pads out as they deteriorate. We can't be sure about the pH, but it is likely that it really is around pH 9

How big is the wall? If its not to big you could put put furring on exposed studs and go over whole wall with new sheet rock. It would have to be taped, textured and painted but would give you an air gap to your ducting. We put green glue and an added layer of drywall on a laundry wall and it did wonders for sound dampening.