Most likely cool and damp and darkish is what is causing the yellowing. Still, you have a nice looking garden! Several things may be at play here, too, though I am in a very dry climate so things may be different for you. Beans like it warm and not saturated. Early in the season when everything is cool, they have a tendency to develop chlorosis which is often related to zinc or iron deficiency. The soil isn't deficient, but it is cool and this seems to promote the problem. They green up as the soil warms, although they can be foliar fed with these minerals. Another factor which affects beans is that cool and damp soil/weather tends to promote fusarium root rot, which results in reddish/rust colored streaks on the roots (a healthy root is generally all white). The only cure for fusarium is for the ground to dry and warm. Fusarium will kill the roots, so hilling the soil up around the stems a bit will allow new roots to form above the infection so the plants don't die from the root loss. I think cool and wet also tends to play a similar number on squash type plants--at least for the yellowing from mineral deficiency induced by cool wet soil. You might try laying down black plastic on the ground under the plants to try to warm the soil a bit, or spray the squash with some micronutrients. I notice in the picture that it appears your corn is showing some signs of nitrogen deficiency. Corn is usually kind of a canary to low nitrogen levels, so you might want to fertilize the other crops (the corn is far enough along that additional nitrogen now won't have much effect). Composts and manures add organic matter to the soil and have a very high nutrient holding capacity, but depending on the source and whether it was dried or fresh, it may actually contribute very little nitrogen. Supplemental nigrogen may help. A commercial fertilizer is probably the quickest and easiest way to go. For those who prefer to have their nitrogen come with lots of organic matter, fresh manure will do the trick as it will still hold the urea from the livestock urine. Chicken manure is generally fairly high in nitrogen even when dry. Any material high in protein will also have good nitrogen levels, such as alfalfa or fish, although if it hasn't decomposed, the nitrogen won't be available until it does. With commercial fertilizers you know the nitrogen content of what you are applying. With the others, you really don't, so you apply and hope for the best.

Due to long term lower back pain, I have just about given up on vegetable gardening. My DH just purchased me 6 of the Garden Wizard Elevated Gardens and we are in the process of setting them up and planting them. I am so happy with them so far but reality may set in as I actually use them. Has anyone ever tried them????

I agree with Kwoods, wouldn't be a good cp site. To answer part two of your question anyway, yes the CPs would eat your polinators. Pitcherplants especially like bees and wasps. In mid summer you can sometimes even hear this buzzing coming from all the "victims" piled one on another. They'll even fill so full of bees and other insects that they'll fall over. Funny thing is that Bees are also the primary polinators for pitcherplants. The plants are just smart enough to send up flowers early in the season before they open their pitchers (so they don't eat their own pollinators!). Hmm, noe all this has gotten me wondering... I wonder if anyone has ever collected pitcherplant honey and what it might taste like! (Also I wonder, if they did, if vegetarians could ethically eat it...) Lonnie

Woodlawn Cemetery on Thompson Lane will give you all the dirt you want for free. I mean anything from a wheelbarrow load to several dump truck loads. That's where I get all my backfill and flower bed dirt. Some is topsoil and some is clay and there may even be some rock in it but it's FREE and you can add whatever you need (compost, fert, nutrients) to it for a small out-of-pocket expense. I just throw it down, till it into the ground and add whatever it needs.