Get a non corrosive pale, mix together some stump and brush killer with diesel fuel. Take care to wear protective clothing so none of the mixture gets on your skin or in your eyes and nasal passages. Use a paint brush to apply the mixture to all the foliage and also any bark of the roots or sucker trunks. Keep brushing the growth you want to kill untill your mixture is gone. Do not leave any mixture in the pale that will have to be stored, and do not pour any of the mixture onto the ground. Only use like I mentioned above, by applying it by paintbrush onto the trunks, bark, and folliage of the trees and shurbs or weed brush that you want to get rid of. After finishing the first major application; safely discard the pail and brush, along with any empty containers, and clothing worn. Shower well and apply Aloe Vera, followed by a good moisturizer to your skin. I know it is a little late to tell you this, now, but your job would have been much easier if you had drilled holes in the trunk after cutting down the tree and applied this stuff; waited about a week, drilled some more holes and applied this mixture again. At the same time any root suckers should have had this stuff applied. Only after doing that long enough that you could no longer see any sprouting from the trunk and suckers coming up from the roots should you have had the trunk and Major roots ground. Even then you may have still needed to apply the mixture to some sprouts, but it would not have been as many as what you are seeing now. Also keep in mind that every time you cut off one of those root suckers it sends a message to the root to produce even more new suckers. My experience with the mixture I described above, and when it was applied only with a paintbrush, never damaged the nearby ponds' ecosystems or polluted the soil. With the method I just describe, I successfully got rid of some horrible hackberry trees, which grew in a thicket form, on our side of a farmer's fence row. That thicket was an about 5 foot deep strip which ran all along the fence line of my property. At the very end of that thicket grew a large infested chinese elm which dropped sticky sap and also sent up many root suckers, which if allowed could have also created a smaller thicket. First we had all the trees cut down and removed. Then I killed the stumps in a manner described above. then after a couple weeks I had the stumps and major roots all along that fence row ground. All this was done in the Summer, and by the fall into the following spring, no more suckers grew for me have to contend with. That following Spring I successfull planted a line of more desireable oaks, pecans, Foster holly, and Loblolly pines. All the those trees have survived, except for some of the holly which ground squirrels killed where the Elm tree's roots had been ground. My only other loss was two loblolly pines in front of there where the water table rose too high and suffocated their roots. Last fall I added two Ponderosa pines back in the area where the old elm had been removed, and they have done great ever since. I first had some sandy loam top soil brought in to help raise the soil more above the high water table in that area. Also, chose to not replace the two loblolly trees which had suffocated from the water table that previously had been too high.

Generally, swarming bees do not attack, because they have nothing to defend (no honey, no children). However, I wouldn't try to remove them without a beesuit. I am really surprised that none of the local beekeepers want to help you. Geez, that's a real drag--certatinly wouldn't happen in our neighborhood. The bees won't stay in a clump on a branch for very long--they will try to find a real home within a day or two, so you can just wait until they leave. Unfortunately, they may decide to move from the tree to somewhere in your house, which would make the problem go from bad to worse. So, what's to do? Well, by any chance do you have a bee supply place locally? If so, you could purchase a standard beehive box, and put them in there. Or, you could put them in a box of some sort, and take them out of town. To move them at all, however, you'll need to either buy a beesuit, or figure out some way to cover yourself completely. Some form of netting over the head is essential--if bees are going to attack (not likely in this case, but there's no sense taking a chance), plus long overalls, leather gloves, workboots and trousers with the cuffs taped shut. That ought to keep you save. Hope this helps.

It looks like the larve of the swallowtail butterfly. These are very common on citrus plants. Pick off any you see as they love citrus leaves. If you have a large amount a pesticide is in order to attain control.The swallowtail caterpiller is the 7th picture down in the link below. Here is a link that might be useful: Caterpiller pictures

I never had that problem. Mold shouldn't grow on planting media and, if it does, it is the manufacturer's fault. What brand/model of planting media are you using? Also, it might be related to organic fertilizer. My advice would be to stop using whatever you are using, start over, and never do business with that manufacturer again. And, if there is a phone number on the bag, I would call and complain. There is a broad spectrum fungicide, Physan 20, that will kill the mold and not hurt the plants much, when used at the correct concentration, but, that is like trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Better to start over and do it right. Incidentally, you should either start your seeds in small cells or final sized pots, one per container, to void subjecting your seedlings to the trauma caused by breaking roots during transplanting. I start my tomato seeds in 4" pots.