Swedish ivy (Plectranthus nummularis) tends to get kind of strange pretty quickly. I'd advise taking cuttings for cosmetic reasons, regardless of what you plan to do after that. The hanging basket will overwinter just fine without any special treatment from you, though; it's just a matter of what it's going to look like. Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) will also overwinter just fine indoors. You shouldn't need to do anything special to them unless they're potbound, which they might well be -- it doesn't take them long. Bolivian Jew (Callisia repens) I'm not directly familiar with, personally, but its closer relatives (Trandescantia, Zebrina) overwinter just fine without special treatment; I don't know why it would be different. Pruning might help keep the plant compact but it's hardly mandatory. Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) will overwinter just fine indoors without special treatment. Boston ferns (Nephrolepsis something) I have no firsthand knowledge of. My understanding from reading about them is that yours will probably need to be repotted, because they grow quickly, but that may be better done in the spring anyway (?), and aside from keeping them out of hot dry areas, they don't need anything special during the winter. Purple wandering Jew (Zebrina pendula?) has no special requirements during the winter and may not even acknowledge that it's not outside anymore. A related species (Tradescantia pallida) was one of very, very few plants to put on any significant growth for me during the winter last year, which is why I will love T. pallida forever and ever. Tahitian bridal veil (Gibasis spp.?) is another one I have no firsthand knowledge of, but I'm told that it can be repotted in winter, if necessary. It should also be kept away from hot, dry air (as from central heating).

Just last night(okay,late last night),I got around to following up on an impulse I picked up over in the terrariums forum where Paul was saying that his ters are planted in long fiber sphagnum moss. Having picked some up recently,I started plugging handfuls into a couple of tanks and un-potting various plants to set free in their new medium. The air circulation around those roots is much improved now,even if they are free to creep around in there without the constriction of their previous containers. When the time comes to liberate them from the tank,the whole mess may pull out in one big slab,and might be a pain to un-knit,but right now I'm not worried about all that. Playing around under glass is always a big part of what keeps me sane in the wintertime. I just love my ters. :)

You might want to take a look at the Winter Sowing Forum. It's a surprisingly successful method of starting seeds outdoors during the winter, and it works very well with most ornamental grass varieties. They also have lots of information on collecting and cleaning seeds.

Hi Ann, Usually the plant will branch after it flowers. Some people cut their branches to make it branch out more, bur from what I read here on the forum, that delays the flowering, which is what most of us want. I read on here that you can help the flowering by the addition of a fertilizer in which the middle number is high. I think mine that I use is 10-50-10. I have also read that you want to stop feeding at approximately 90 days prior to the onset of the plant going dormant for the winter. After winter, when the plant wakes up, I read it is best to start off with a fertilizer that is higher on the first number. That promotes the growth, and then switch to the higher second number. As far as the time lines, I can't remember excatly when to switch. Someone smarter than me, and there are a bunch of them in here, will help you further. Hope that helps a little. John