adding nitrogen to compost pile in winter
kokopellifivea
8 years ago
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Comments (8)
kimmq
8 years agoLoneJack Zn 6a, KC
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
Restart compost pile after winter
Comments (3)Im pretty new at this compost thing so dont take my word. However, I have the same situation. It looks to be halfway done after 6 months. Im repairing 2 large sections of my lawn after some construction work was done in winter. Im just going to spread it out and till it before spreading new soil and seeding. The compost should still decay and help the new soil, I would think. The remainder, Im going to lay out in beds before spring mulch....See MoreAdding alfalfa tea to the compost pile?
Comments (3)Gbig2, Usually alfalfa is used in the compost pile as an emergency addition during the winter months when there is a shortage of greens to be had. From what you have stated you are having a shortage of browns (carbon), not greens (nitrogen). With the proper balance of both there is no need to add anything to the pile except moisture or air. IMO, the alfalfa would be better used on plants, not the compost pile. Contrary to popular opinion, paper is a poor substitute for leaves in the pile IMO. Paper has no nutritional value for plants, however as a weed suppressor they have great value, again IMO. I am not saying to not add paper to the pile, what I am saying is that I donÂt add paper to any of my piles. I put forth great effort in the fall and winter to collect all the leaves I can get my hands on when they are in abundance. I have great empathy for those who live in areas where leaves are hard to come by, yet the extra effort to acquire a "leaf load" is well worth the effort when the time to spread compost comes around. Alfalfa, in any form will make the smoke come out of a compost pile, no doubt about that. However, the use of alfalfa tea or pellets/meal directly in the garden is of greater benefit IMO. The patience needed to create good quality compost cannot be circumvented with super hot additives or quick fix alternatives. The proper mixture of materials, adequate moisture, air, and time will forever get the composting job done. Again, IMO the reward for taking the long road outweighs all those so-called "shortcuts". There is no "right or wrong" way to make compost, just the way we make compost. In the end, the best way to make compost is the way that makes you happy with the results Blutranes...See Morewill adding urine daily heat up my compost pile?
Comments (14)usually the companies here give away their coffee grounds to other people or actually sell them -.-" i mean we don't have many coffee shops to begin with and the very few often run dry on used grounds as im not the only gardener in the state and we live in a small state since it's Hawaii. i often use my own grounds but i am talking about an outside pile i mean 1 cup of coffee does not yield a lot of grounds in general and the pile outside will need over 50 cups that is for sure more likely more due to some of the grounds washing away into the soil. but i have been using my urine to compost this pile 3 months into it been using it about 2 times a week moving into 3. and it's been doing great. the middle is all composted it's rich black and doesn't smell like piss. should be able to get a good yield within a year. would be less but people keep adding browns to it making it hard to harvest in time. it usually rains a lot and my pile can get rained on. im looking only to use the urine until it's composted a decent amount to the fact i can water it down and retain the moisture i'll use diluted urine...See MoreAdding Fresh Cow Manure to Compost Pile
Comments (10)The main concurn with fresh cow manure is keeping it airated. For that reason I wouldn't mix it with the other material. If the cows are on pasture,I would alow most to lay where it falls and eventualy return to the soil. If they are stalled which requires cleaning,I would want to age it before putting into a bin. I would want an area about 6'X6' on the ground where I could dump in adjoining stacks until the ground was covered about 6" to 8" deep. With a square point shovel,I would put 3/4ths of the 36 sq ft on top of one 3'x3' corner,alternating each shovel full coming from aereas of varying dryness/age in hopes of dry material creating air pockets in the new stack. The new stack will recieve the first new manure from stalls then the remaining emaginary "L" shaped bare ground will be covered similar to when we started. When the ground is once again covered,everything is stacked in the diagonal corner layering dry with fresher. Ok,I hope to have created somwhat of a visual of a stratigy for ageing and composting the manure with minium labor. Don't use a tape measure and calander in attempt to adheare to the method,use your judgment on space,timing and wherther to add moisture or cover to prevent over watering by rain. You will reach a point where the manure is reduced in bulk and is more suitable for mixing with material in your bin without creating anarobic problems. Alternate to incorprating into your bin,taking the manure to fully composted is satisfactory also....See Morerayzone7
8 years agokokopellifivea
8 years agoLoneJack Zn 6a, KC
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agokokopellifivea
8 years agotoxcrusadr
8 years ago
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