When researching lights for our rebuild, I'd read in a few places that people who apply makeup prefer lighting that's as close as possible to "daylight", thus closer simulating what the result will look like when outdoors. So that's defined as "5000K to 6500K". The higher K will definitely look a little harsh to some, so I compromised and the overhead bathroom light is "warm" (3500K I think) and for the vanity light (actually a backlit mirror) I went for 5500K. It is indeed getting harder and harder to find fixtures that take separate bulbs. And when we were looking, it was a nightmare trying to choose based on online info (or mis-info in many cases) so we broke down and visited a local lighting speciality store. In the end it wasn't *that* much more expensive, and we had the advantage of being able to pick far in advance and catch sales, and they stored our fixtures in their warehouse until we were ready to collect.

"we'd really rather put in fixtures in which we can change the bulbs when they burn out. But can you retrofit this sort of light into an existing ceiling?" Sure. I used the Juno Recessed Lighting 17 trim (available with many reflector colors; I chose Haze) with the Juno TC1R 4" Line Voltage Remodel Housing and 50W PAR20 bulbs. Juno offers many trims that fit in the TC1R housing. "are there integrated LED lights which are easy to DIY replace? I'm sure that after a year or two, whatever we install will be obsolete and we won't be able to find ones identical to the originals." In the ceiling, install retrofit cans with screw connectors for the lamps (example). Then you can replace the integrated trim (example) anytime one fails. You could buy a few extra trims if you want to be sure to have a one that matched an existing one.

Old tungsten filament lamps have a color temp of 2700 Kelvin. The higher efficiency halogen tungsten lamps have a color temp or 3000K. So, 2700-3000K is what you are used to, you grew up with it. Daylight bulbs are 5000K or higher and are way too blue for interior use. My rules on in-home LED's: 1. Replace existing wattage bulbs with same 'wattage equivalent' LED bulbs. 2. Match the old style bulb shape with the new (i.e., PAR 38, etc.) 3. Go with 3000K LED's for living areas within the home. Laundry areas, closets, pantries, garages, etc. can tolerate higher color temps, but the perceived colors may change slightly. 4. Go with a color rendering index (CRI) LED bulb of 90 CRI or greater, especially in bathrooms or makeup areas. This keeps skin tones appearing normal. 5. Purchase enough bulbs to have a few spares. 6. Unless you have a large number of non-dimming fixtures, consider using only dimmer-compatible bulbs; it's easier to just have one style of spare bulb on the shelf. 7. IMO, the biggest problem people experience with interior LED bulbs is too high a Kelvin temperature (4000K and up) and/or low-CRI (below 90) bulbs; these two factors can shift the perceived colors within the home and make the space seem odd/different.

no flicker flame bulbs is intended to give light just looks. the standard issue non LED are only 3 watts, I prefer those to the LED version.