Another vote for the Cree CR6 - sold at Home Depot (under the Ecosmart brand, but clearly marked with Cree identification). These include a white trim kit and fit into most inexpensive 6" recessed fixtures (but the bulb itself is sized more like those usually used with 5" fixtures, if not smaller) - the two together could cost less than $75. Most of the CR6's have a standard incandescent-style Edison base, but a GU24 version is available for the same price (and presumably sold in areas like California that require them). These can be dimmed to 5% of normal brightness using most standard dimmers. The bulbs use only 10.5 watts apiece and have 35,000 rated life. The Eurofase fixtures/trim kits have a swivel feature for the bulbs - do you need these? There are lots of manufacturers making fixtures and trim kits for MR16 bulbs (with GU5.3 bipin base), which are usually 12 volt halogen mini-reflectors, although LED retrofits have recently become available. There are also 35w halogen bulbs that are as bright as 50w bulbs usually are. All 12v bulbs require a tranformer (often several) to convert from 120 or 240v, and these sometimes hum (higher-quality ones shouldn't), and always require special low-voltage dimmers that are pricey (if you want dimming). I'm quite a fan of MR16's for their outstanding color rendering and (if the bulb is dichroic and the fixture designed for them) not throwing heat downward - making them great for lighting countertops and kitchen tables because food looks colorful and great. They aren't widely used for general lighting, probably due to their expense, although there's no reason you can't if that's what you like. The MR16 bulbs are available in different wattages, qualities, and beam spreads - choose carefully. I'm less experienced with GU10 bulbs; these are kind of like MR16s but run on 120v rather than 12v and have bayonet bases. Other options that are less expensive are small recessed fixtures that take PAR20 (or the slightly smaller, harder to find PAR16) 120V reflector bulbs - these all have the traditional screw-in Edison base. These are only slightly larger than MR16 fixtures, although the light quality isn't quite as pleasing. There are even MR16 bulbs with small integral transformers that fit Edison bulb sockets.

The Philips is made in China too. The one I've tried is the AmbientLED version that they sell at Home Depot for $24.97. It is only available there with 3K color temp and is downrated slightly at 435 lumens. (Fine by me as that is the color temp that the halogens are.) The EnduraLED version that you linked to is available from various other outlets in several color temps and output levels. You might be interested in the link below, where someone tears one apart so you can see the fan. I also posted a short review with links to a couple of photos of the light distribution. In any event, my advice is to try one and see if you like it. Then go from there. Here is a link that might be useful: Candlepower thread on Philips 10 watt MR-16

A lighting designer's most often specified MR16 lamp is the GE Precise Constant Color. I believe they were the first with a coating technology that didn't degrade and color shift. Others like Sylvania came out with Tru-Aim and now almost everyone has a name for their upgraded lamp choice with a more stable reflector coating. Cheaper lamp coatings can produce poor colorings right from the start with a greenish fringe. Cheap lamp coatings degrade losing both lumen output from the fixture and shifting to an awful color. Philips and Sylvania now have coatings which turn more heat into light. Philips calls theirs Energy Advantage IRC and they had more variety of lamps available last I looked. This will be your best lamp choice with energy efficiency in mind. The GE constant color is still the best for an even beam of light. Some of the IRC lamps have a hot spot right in the center. You can add a diffusion lens to smooth out a hot spot if noticeable. These types of lenses come standard in high quality recessed fixtures like Cooper Iris and Juno Aculux but I've never seen one standard in a track fixture. I'm dont' know from your description what lamps you have since many can be called incandescent floods. If you have a R30 or BR30 then these are now only available in 65 watt. Only halogen Par 30 come in 75. An R lamp has a poor quality painted coating and flood R30s produce a very wide beam of light. Any Par or MR16 lamp is going to produce a more controlled beam. What this means is that you may need more fixtures to overlap beams of light and evenly light your kitchen. You should try the 45 watt 60 degree, depending on the fixture. Here is a link that might be useful: click on Energy Advantage IRC MR16 Lamps

Go low voltage. A good quality one will not give you any trouble. The transformer is already wired into the housing, so your electrician's job is the same. I can see where he might have had issues in the past with lower quality ones. But every lighting design I do is either 100% low voltage or in combination with the Cree bulb. I'm getting an LED replacement bulb for 3" & 4" low voltage cans soon. It's bigger than an MR16, but is made to fit in the regular low voltage housing. It's 10 watts and delivers the same amount of light as a 50 watt MR16. The coolest part is that it has a selectable beam spread. You just turn the optic and change it from a spot to a flood. I have to test the actual brightness and dimmability. The important thing though is that newer LED bulbs will fit in existing low voltage cans. So go with the smaller, brighter low voltage cans now. When the LED technology gets to the point that you're happy with it, you can easily swap out the bulb.