A northwest window on top of the t.v. console is not enough light! It needs LOTS of very bright indirect light or a mix of indirect and dappled direct sun. The new growth is stretching because of low light levels and older leaves are prematurely dropping as the plant pulls needed resources our of old tissue to fuel growth. I've purchased several different plant species is self watering pots and invariably find them moderately to severely root bound, that is, when you go to knock the plant out of it's pot, there is nothing but a solid mass of roots, no loose soil. At this point the soil is exhausted. Fertilizing alone is of limited help. Re-potting must be done.

Use distilled water ......... or water from a R/O water filtration system (what I use), or rain water, snow melt, or air conditioner/ dehumidifier condensate, all of which are deionized (no solutes harmful to plants) or very close to that state. N/a - leaves appearing at close to the rate they are being shed, or more leaves being shed than are appearing is an unsustainable condition. Expression of the pigment anthocyanin, which produces the maroon coloration of leaf margins, is usually most conspicuous in the very early and early developmental stage of the leaf; however, light levels are an overarching influence at all times. Brighter light will increase the contrast of the leaves' variegative coloration. Not to chide you, but to others, it's important to understand that because a plant tolerates something isn't necessarily an indication its provisional influence is advantageous to the plant. That a schefflera temporarily tolerates temperatures in the low thirties, or ponytail palms tolerate extended periods of drought and/or low fertility isn't reason enough to adopt those parameters as part of the plant's care regimen. The closer cultural conditions are to the limits the plant is genetically programmed to tolerate, the greater the stress the plant must tolerate to maintain viability. Stress quickly turns to strain, which is an unsustainable condition, unsustainable because under conditions of strain, the plant is using more energy than it's producing. In order to cope with severe stress and strain, plants have the ability to reduce the mass living mass the roots need to sustain, and the mechanism by which mass is diminished is my shedding parts to create a balance between the the plant's top volume and the size/efficiency of its root mass. Good point about the tea leaves. I did know coffee and tea grounds are not good for plants until all harmful chemicals have been leached during the composting process (whether in a compost pile or in the pot), but I wasn't aware of their high fluoride content. I did read that in humans the anti-oxidants act as a counter-measure to the potentiality of oxidative stress in humans. I have no idea if that carries over to plants, but I suspect not - just a guess. Something I wrote about the impact of coffee/tea or used grounds in container plantings: Coffee/Tea Grounds Forum discussions frequently center on the question of adding dilute coffee/tea or grounds to plants as a 'tonic', but Arabica (coffee) and Camellia (tea) are known for their toxic alkaloid (caffeine) content and their allelopathic affect on plants as well as autotoxic (poison to their own seedlings) effects on future generations. Caffeine interferes with root development by impairing protein metabolism. This affects activity of an important bio-compound (PPO) and lignification (the process of becoming woody), crucial steps for root formation. We also know that the tannins in both coffee and tea are known allelopaths (growth inhibitors). There are ongoing experiments to develop herbicides using extracts from both coffee and tea that cause me to want to say they might serve better as a nonselective herbicide than as a tonic. I would not use either (stale coffee or tea) by applying directly to my plants - especially containerized plants; nor would I add tea bags/coffee grounds to my container soils. Al

I would repot your Fiddle Leaf Fig with new good quality potting soil and into a slightly bigger pot with drainage holes. A clay type pot is better than plastic. Make sure your Fig isn’t being exposed to hot air from a vent and turn the plant every now and then so that it gets even light

how are you applying the fert.. and are you doing it in sun ... looks like fert may have washed down the leaf.. and puddled at leaf ends.. and maybe got burned ... i dont see any doom.. and i surely see no reason to destroy it all ... petunia need to be cut back a couple times during the season... when they start getting leggy ... i see no reason to do it too soon.. just because of a few brown leaf tips ... i also wonder about a cold event.. since you admit you planted too early ... and a minor cold snap.. may have caused what you see .. and its just showing now .... it never hurts to tell us where you are .. big city name ... zone alone is not good enough ... water when the pot needs water ... which in cool spring should not be very often ... you might be overwatering ... insert finger.. and FIND OUT ... and water when it needs it ... come the heat of summer.. more water will probably be needed ... but not right now ... also.. i see some seed pods forming.. you need to deadhead the pet's frequently ... to keep bloom going... ken