Jonathan, An interesting observation. Not sure what 'tip' means. Probably you did not mean those dormant 'scale shields' that first drop off at dormancy break, cannot remember the right technical term. Just went out to inspect all my figs trees. Noticed some that fit your description. At this early stage of spring, I noticed some figs with 'still tightly' held buds that looked reddish. On very close examination, I noticed that it is ACTUALLY the underside of the (very young) curled leaves that FIRST shows up, together with their underside veins! This is what gives the 'tip' the red hue. No contradiction here. Then the leaf flips over and the vein red color fades, as it matures. This is what I observed: My 2 HCs (sources: EL and Hartmann) showed it. Sal's (EL) showed it. VdB (EL) showed it. My #4 unknown (Ta Cenc) showed it (wonder what this fig really is!). My #2 (MOST obvious, also observed by Herman last year) and #5 unknowns (supposedly of the Mission fig type) showed it. All other figs none... Specifically looked at the Black Mission and Vista Mission young figs (both) from Jon, and neither showed it! They may in a more advanced leafing out stage. However I did observe the the Vista breba start as a bead-sized, shoe-polish-black color, and then fade away as the figlets grows... George (NJ).

If you were to dig a hole 2 feet deep next to the tree, do you think it would ever fill with water when it rained; or, if you did fill it with water, how long would it take it to drain? Have you done anything in terms of fertilizing? If yes, what did you do? any other additives or spraying of either non-selective or broad leaf herbicides so that drift could have been a problem? Al

Any damage that is showing on your plants is mechanical - that means it came to be from shipping and other transport, handling or jostling. It is not the result of diseases or insects nor does it look like any watering issues. In reality, these plants look pretty darn good considering most big box stores do not take the slightest bit of care with their plants (hence the evidence of damage you are seeing). As to fertilizing, you need to identify your plants and then do a bit of research, as not all plants benefit from similar fertilization methods nor do they require it at the same time. Cacti and succulents have different needs than do tropical foliage plants and flowering houseplants (orchids, African violets, flowering gift plants) have yet another set of needs. In general, an all purpose liquid fertilizer used at 1/2 to 1/3 strength with every other watering is appropriate for most tropicals during their primary growing season (March through October) but you can get by with quite a bit less. I'd suggest you post this on the House Plants forum both to get accurate ID's on your plants and their advice as to when, how much and with what to best fertilize what you have.

Use a dowel/unfinished chopstick/skewer. The first time I checked moisture with a dowel I found that the moisture meter I relied on said the soil was bone dry when it was still very moist, and my ficuses definitely love drying out between watering. My 3/8" dowel, broken in half with all four ends sharpened in a pencil sharpener, is cheap, fast (it only has to be in the soil for a few seconds), easy, and completely reliable. BTW, I'd get rid of the moss or whatever is covering the soil because it slows evaporation and provides a great habitat for bugs. Definitely don't water until you're positive the soil at the bottom is completely dry. At that point there's still a significant amount of moisture inside the particles and available to the roots, so don't be nervous; just check the soil moisture daily once the top of the pot starts to dry out, and keep your watering jug locked away until the dowel comes out completely dry and unstained by soil.