Amaryllis that I bought last season is ready to bloom again :)
natureinspiredM_ 6B NJ
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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dondeldux z6b South Shore Massachusetts
8 years agonatureinspiredM_ 6B NJ thanked dondeldux z6b South Shore MassachusettsRelated Discussions
Are we ready to start Pond Season again!
Comments (24)min3: I have a little pre-formed pond, it is perhaps 180-200 gallons. I'm not exactly sure which pump/filter I have, it is something like this: http://www.google.com/search?source=ig&hl=en&rlz=&=&q=pondmaster+pond+filters&aq=3&aqi=g10&aql=&oq=pondmaster Initially there was a problem with it but my dealer replaced the impeller then gave me a whole replacement pump, and I remember him saying something to the effect that it is now a stronger pump then I started with. I modified it somewhat by adding a plate on the bottom so the pump stays attached to the filter. Otherwise the pump tends to fall over and looks ugly. I also striped the screws that hold the filter together so I added some longer screws and big washers to hold it together. Inside I stuck some rocks and some bio balls from another filter I had, this helps it hold the bottom when I change the filter. For the filter I keep year round a thick carbon filter from PM, change it once a year otherwise do not touch it. On top of that I have two pre-filters to grab the pond muck. These filters I made out of craft store 1 inch pads. I've used batting in the past but these get me thru the whole season without falling apart. When the fountain slows (once or twice a week) I pull the whole pump/filter out, replace the pre-filter with the other, put it back together and drop it back into the pond. Then I hose off the dirty filter and let it sit out till next change. This way I never put chlorine into the filter. That's a quick job, 10 minutes tops. This filter does a great job of keeping the muck out of my pond. Additionally, I grow a 50% cover of water lettuce. Mid summer the WL keeps the floating algae away, though I do sometimes run a UV filter when I'm in a hurry for crystal clear water....See MoreCan I reuse an Amaryllis after it blooms?
Comments (27)Nopets, Many if not all amaryllis will grow like houseplants if given the chance. Some will lose all but one leaf but that single leaf will remain green and, some will retain most all of their leaves and grow slowly through the winter months. In the case of amaryllis bulbs growing like evergreens, the bulb will bloom when it feels like it which is most likely not when you would want it to but it will bloom. If you had asked earlier before you pulled it from the pot and cut the leaves someone might have suggested that you just bring it in when the weather got cold and let it continue to grow. It most likely would not have bloomed for the holidays but you could always buy another bulb for Christmas and your Red Lion will surprise you with flowers when you least expect it, maybe next Spring or even Summer... Also, if you've got your bulb in a large enough pot and it appears by the amount of roots you have that yours was, you can leave the bulb in the pot for several years. Three years is a good average but I'm ashamed to admit that I have some bulbs that have been in the same pot for 4 or 5 years with offsets and most often they still manage to bloom. Sorry if I overloaded you with advice... Donna...See MoreHelp my Amaryllis bloom again
Comments (14)Hi Luis - You don't need cold to initiate bloom, just stop watering. When you decide your want your plant to experience "winter", stop watering. Think of it this way - you have a rainy and a dry season. When the dry season comes, it is the tropical equivalent of winter and even the indoor plants need to dry out. The leaves will die and it will kill you not to water the thing but be strong! Feel the bulb and you will see, it is firm and has plenty of moisture but your goal is to get the leaves to all die down. After at least half the leaves have dried and died, you can start watering again. You also need to give that baby a little more root space. After the dead leaves are all trimmed or pulled off is a good time to do this. Plant it in some new soil in a pot about 8 inches in diameter and 8 inches high (uh, make that 20 cm or so) I would let 2-3 months go by without watering. About 3 months after you have repotted and start watering again, you should have flowers. Lived in Hawaii for a while and this worked there. It is a little cooler there, though....See MoreChristmas Amaryllis never bloomed. What did I do wrong?
Comments (4)Bulbs of the common big blooming cultivars contain at least one preformed bud and do principally NOT need any fertilizing up to the time point when the flower scape has reached full size and the blooms open. This is the reason for the ubiquitary amaryllogene advice - discovered on almost every plastic label accompanied with potted knight star lilies which tells "fertilizer usually not necessary" This is fully correct in the case that the plant will be delivered to the waste bucket afterwards - which is very common and btw fully intended by the bulb traders *lol* However, regular fertilization is absolutely necessary in order to re-establish the bulb which is so exhausted after having generated such a huge plant mass in scapes and leaves. The importance of a carefull husbandry for the plant at the windowsill to make it REbloom is generally underestimated (my opinion) With certainty it is not sufficient that the plant be keeping its leaves but for some weeks after it has bloomed - and then these leaves, while regarded as undecorative, often underdeveloped or even collapsed due to irregeular watering are cut away... The leaves should instead remain living for a timespan in the magnitude of 1/2 year and more, during which even fresh new leaves will be produced. BTW this will fill up the leaf bush and considerably enhance the performance of your knight star lily! This aim can only be achieved by regular waterings and fertilizing and nursing the plant at a windowsill which is not TOOO dark... It is wise to support the leaves, which usually tend to become very long indoors to protect them from collapsing and becoming useless for the plant. Use adhesive films for that purpose. Now, back to the start question: There are several reason why blooms remained absent in the first season, Casey. The bulb might have been stored far too long prior to forcement, and the buds have already shriveled up meanwhile, or the scape was damaged by bulb scale mites, which are seemingly an inevitable adjunct to every hippeastrum bulb (my personal experience). OR, and this happens very often, you watered to amply at the very beginning of the forcement. The compost should be watered vwery sparingly at this stage....See MorenatureinspiredM_ 6B NJ
8 years agodondeldux z6b South Shore Massachusetts
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agonatureinspiredM_ 6B NJ
8 years agonatureinspiredM_ 6B NJ
8 years agonatureinspiredM_ 6B NJ
8 years agodondeldux z6b South Shore Massachusetts
8 years agonatureinspiredM_ 6B NJ
8 years agodondeldux z6b South Shore Massachusetts
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