Ceth, the plants looked very healthy at 25 days... so the question would be, what changed after that time? It sounds like bad weather is the most likely explanation for the chlorosis. Yardlongs thrive in heat & full sun, and plentiful moisture... as long as the soil is well drained. Cool nights & excessively cloudy days would slow them down. As a rule, beans don't need nitrogen, so I would avoid applying manure around them. Fresh manure, in particular, can cause root damage. Applying wood ashes directly to the soil around living plants is generally not a good idea. The ashes are highly alkaline, and can burn roots. But your observations make me wonder. Tropical soils are often acidic (low pH) and wood ashes would increase the soil pH. If you can test your soil pH, I would recommend doing so. Wood ashes in moderate amounts would help to neutralize acidity, but the best time to apply them would be to dig them in several weeks before planting, which would hopefully give them time to dissolve. I grow many different yardlongs here, most are varieties from Southeast Asia or the Philippines. Those that are not daylength sensitive generally do well for me. They only grow when the weather is warm, though; because of my short growing season, I can only harvest beans for a month or two. While I have been to Southeast Asia many times, and am familiar with your climate, I don't have experience gardening there... so that is the best advice I can offer.

I am intrigued by the idea of a Native American Three Sisters garden. I'm planning to grow corn, and thought about growing pumpkins and beans along with the corn. Would yard long beans, specifically Chinese Red Noodle beans be too heavy to grow up the corn instead of pole beans? I haven't grown yard long beans before, so I'm not sure of their growth habit. If there is another forum better suited to this question, let me know. Thanks :)

I have the exact problem - vigorous vines but no flowering for 2 years now in the same location that 3 years and before I had many beans. My treliis is actually an arbor than can be walked under @ 7 feet high. My pH is 7-7.5, micronutrients are not lacking, N is low but P &K are excessive. Am adding sulfur to lower pH but suspect the problem is something else. I've checked into toxicants from tree roots (not too far away) but not sure on that. I regularly add hardwood leaf compost mixed with grass clippings so am wondering if that is a factor. Sunlight is 6 hours a day so don't think that's the problem. We had severe Spring droughts for the past 2 years, but I've watered every other day though wonder if I was getting enough down for uptake during the bloom period. Temperatures were excessive - mid 90's- so am suspecting that as the main culprit. Am to the point of pruning the layering vines in hopes of getting results when things cool in the Fall. I've typically had excellent blooming & bean production just before the first frost. Other experiences? Advice?

Herblady - love those pics. I've been thinking about crop rotation for my garden as well. I put a tomato trellis at all four corners of my beds, plus the peppers are in a great spot. I really don't have a long run for them except where they are now. In hindsight, I probably shouldn't have spread the tomatoes out so much. Where can they go next year as well as the other nightshade plants? It's encouraging to know about that family in France. So maybe I can get away with 2 years in a row then... For my hop trellises next year, I need a better way to train them (maybe netting). The jute string I'm using did not work that well once the hops got to the top. Instead of following down the other side they jumped over to the trellis next door and commingled. In fact, the first two trellises are pulled together at the top.