hi AK no offense, but how do you go from 'high water' to 'low water' in a matter of ('maybe two weeks')? Ive have one a little smaller than yours on my (east facing) bath window for about 3Mnths now, hasnt grown an inch that i can tell, but i allow it to become fairly dry between waterings. In that (your) soil, when bone-dry, it should 'feel' almost feather light, see? You have to get a feel for that, untill you do, you'll need a way to check it, particularly the bottom of the soil/rootball, not just the top inch, dig? I would consider pulling it out of the pot (it 'should' stay together, intact,, you'll know) and seeing just how dry, moist, or Wet it actually is (in its entirety) or, you could get a dowel stick of some sort, poke it (deep) into the soil, leave it for a cpl mins, and learn to judge from that,,, 'Most' plants dont like to be constantly 'wet',, OR moved constantly while theyre trying to acclimate to a new environment (your home), from what mayve been a semi-temporary environment anyway (this campus today, another tomm, gotta sell these tress,,,). Carmona microphylla, Fukien or (Fuijan) Tea are even a little more sensitive to this, as Ryan says, their 'rather finicky', or can be,, In the heat of my Apt, in dead summer, i doubt i watered twice a week. ...not saying to compare your situation to this, but its hard to imagine all the 'trial n error' you described, (4 waterings in 2 weeks vs. xxxx....). Outside in Full Sun, it might need waterd daily, inside, in filtered/dappled/indirect light probably mush less,, the key is to match its watering NEEDS, to the amount of light you can give it. NOT 'its wed., or 'looks' dry, time to water', not saying You do, but some do,,,, Yellowing leaves are typically an indicator of a watering issue, or somtimes just any 'stress',, (unfortunately) it could indicate too little, or too much,, but thats your first 'clue', its talking to You, you just need to learn to 'listen'. If its been seriously water-logged for a significant time, you may need to allow it to dry out more than you probably think, (just not Bone-Dry), kinda 'weening' her back like, ya know? ...would really need to 'know' whats going on below the soil line,,, btw many plants will 'tolerate' a variety of conditions, beyond what they actually 'prefer', but ya gotta kinda allow them a minute or two to adjust to it, hopefully we're not at a point where we cant give her another minute to adjust,,, heres some 'general' care tips to start ya off http://www.bonsai4me.com/SpeciesGuide/Carmona.html http://www.bonsaigardener.org/fukien-tea-bonsai.html Shes a cute little specimen! hope ya can get er goin, post back if ya want or (need?) to I'd luv to hear how shes doin, regardless... Pls know that (despite however it 'sounds' whilst i hastily typed, with nothin but dinner, a shower, and My plants needs being backburnered in mind...) im really hoping this helps some, else i wouldnt have bothered right? :) ss nice nick btw :)

Most turf grasses in the PNW will be blends of various cool weather grass seeds, however sod farms seem to prefer monocultures and often go with a single type. Because many of these grasses look virtually indistinguishable from each other, best to go back to the source and ask where you purchased the sod. Because our cool season grasses want to go dormant in summer, I tend to recommend fall as the best time to overseed or do much remedial lawn care. What you can do now is to aerate the soil, using a plug or core aerator. Aerating is one of the best things you can do for a lawn or the ideal first step in lawn care prep. After aerating, spread a thin layer of compost, just a half inch or so. Water as necessary but not too frequently and deeply when you do. In my Puget Sound climate, once every week to 10 days is usually sufficient through summer provided the water penetrates down 6-8 inches. Weed manually as required. Then in fall you can overseed. Again, cover with a thin layer of compost (better than peat or topsoil) and keep moist until full germination, usually about 10-14 days. Mow when the new grass is at least 2.5 inches tall. And you can still fertilize before winter. If you overseed in September, you should be able to fertilize in mid to late October. Of any time of year, the fall fertilizing is the most beneficial in our region. And opt for an organic product if you can.

It appears to be surviving just fine in spite of a major loss of bark some years ago. So, just leave it be. No coatings to "seal" or whatever else might be suggested.

There are two culprits here -- 1) yes, sawfly larvae (aka rose slugs) are chewing the leaves, and will continue to munch them down until they leave the bare mid-vein, and 2) the round holes at the edges, looking like they were made with a hole-puncher, were done by leaf-cutter bees -- they don't eat the leaves, and tend to have just one period of activity when they cut foliage to line their nests. :-) ~Christopher