Help! Need advice on 1950's bathroom tile & tub/shower
realjoy
7 years ago
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bathroom hell (blue tub, pink tiles), redo help needed
Comments (6)What a bathroom! What a neat tub and sink! Is this a vacation home or permanent? I'm not sure it matters but it would work better for a vacation home (psychologically anyway), but what about doing the tub/shower plumbing like an old clawfoot with shower added? Full surround shower curtain (or just two sides if you want to redo the tile nice and watertight I guess) with the showerhead piped openly from the lower plumbing and attached to the curtain rod? Wrong terms, I know, but maybe you know what I mean. LIke the one linked below (cheaper versions and different configurations are available--this was just a quick google.) I'd guess there used to be a thicker floor that was removed and nobody bothered to tell the toilet. If you're really being cheap, you could maybe get away with a lot of paint on the cabinets and curtains over the missing doors, but the cabinets would have to be sturdy enough to keep for that to work. Crisp white tile is inexpensive and you CAN put tile on a piece of plywood for the removable countertop. It'll be heavy enough you won't need to anchor it. Maybe you can DIY drywalling the ceiling. It's not a fun job, but it's a good bonding experience with whatever friends you can get to help. :) Here is a link that might be useful: example of ceiling mount shower curtain/tub-to-shower conversion...See MoreNeed help visualizing freestanding tub at end of 6 x 9 bathroom
Comments (1)I think it would look fine to tile part of the way up but I'd probably do it around the tub area. I'm hoping to put in a similar type tub in my bathroom & am planning to do paneled wainscoting (not beadboard) at chair rail height around mine. Good luck with your plan....See MoreBathroom Tub/Cement Board Screw Up? Need Help Quick
Comments (6)I'm right at the same stage, and I had researched the issue obsessively because of seeing posts here and on the john bridge forum about how, exactly, the durock meets the flange (in my case on a Kohler shower base, but it seems very similar). Catmom posted about her husband's experience with the shower base, so you might search for that. It seems there are 2 approaches: fur out the studs as Kohler suggests, or notch the studs so the durock sits right above the flange. You also need to make sure the waterproof barrier (black plastic in my case) goes behind the durock, and overlaps the flange enough so it can get trimmed and then siliconed to the edge of the durock. I believe that the tile will extend slightly below the bottom edge of the durock, so you'll kind of curl the black plastic up behind the tile and sealing it to the flange. So far, my guys seem to have done it correctly. As for the second question, I think you just need to ask them to trim and remove the durock. I think they assume you want to tile all the way to the door frame, if I'm interpreting your photo correctly. I'm no expert, but I hope my explanation makes sense! Good luck today....See MoreNeed help with bathroom tub tile
Comments (3)spot setting is not acceptable . The TCNA calls for nearly 100% coverage and transfer from tile to substrate in wet areas. You said it in your post my " handyman" when you should have said my professional tile mechanic....See Morenosoccermom
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