I also needed to buy some bagged soil over winter and don't remember if it was a Lowe's brand or MG but it was much more chunky, and labeled for palms & citrus. It's the best bagged potting soil I've encountered, hardly any peat which, IME, is just stuff that helps me kill plants, not keep them healthy. I've been thinking about getting more since I like how it has 'done' so far, not compacting or getting hydrophobic, though I know the chunks of organic materials will decompose quickly in the Alabama weather this summer, just like mix that I create with bark/mulch/similar stuff. So, when using a potting mix with organic ingredients (can decompose into smaller bits,) know that it will become less and less hospitable for roots to thrive, because the air spaces are eliminated as the tiny particles sift into them, and the growth of roots squeeze the air out of the pot, necessitating repotting more often, I do this annually. A mix of ingredients that don't decompose, or decompose much more slowly can allow plants to go 2-3 years, generally, before repotting is critical - from that particular angle. I think woody entities stay more healthy if their roots are trimmed annually, but this can be a daunting chore for some larger plants. Not a 1-size-fits-all thing, or 1-sided issue, largely dependent on your style, schedule, budget, etc... It's also good to know that the soil you used has fertilizer in it. It should say how long that is expected to last. Adding more fertilizer before then would definitely be overkill for something as slow-growing as a Dracaena. Whatever one is using, don't pack it in the pot. Leave it 'fluffed' and full of tiny air pockets. The first few times you water, don't avoid being thorough, but try for a gentle sprinkle, so the motion and weight of the water doesn't compact the soil. This gives roots access to oxygen and moisture at the same time, necessary for them to be healthy, as said above. Not to put too fine of a point on the water thing, but aside from being unnecessarily expensive (if actually filtered in a way that it contains no minerals, fluoride, chlorination, etc...,) bottled water has a wide range of possibilities, including being tap water just like what comes out of your own tap. Also common is spring/mineral water, containing unknown substances that may or may not be appreciated by any particular plant. Once water hits the ground anywhere, it can contain various substances, like lime which can alter PH. Distilled, rain, and condensate from dehumidifier or A/C are sources of water with "nothing in it," assuming it's collected in a clean container.

While they don't look like what I usually have seen, I must ask - are the pebbles glued together? The plant looks pretty thristy to me. Chances are good that the soil is your problem. Usually, what they come in is not the best for long term health of the plant. If it were my plant, I'd unpot it and see what is going on below the pebbles. I've had plants in a peat substrate that would take up a lot of water, but have dry spots near the roots - so the plants were still thristy because the water was going around the roots. Once the peat dries out, it really won't hold water again. There are a lot of good soil "recipes" on this site that will be better for your plants. If your apartment is that hot and other plants have died, sounds like you may need to water more often. Are the plants near a register or air flow that will make them dry out faster? Is the apartment really dry, as in low humidity? (And they all have probably had the same soil issues.) I hope some of our experts chime in to help you. I am merely sharing my experiences. And I have been a gross over-waterer who has rotted a lot of succulent in the past. They were all in lousy soils, too. The folks here sure know their stuff! Hope they help you.

I broke a limb on my Ponderosa lemon last autumn when I was putting it in the greenhouse. It was hanging on by just a little wood where it split from the trunk. It was a clean split, not any splinters. It had heavy, large lemons on it. I sprinkled a drop or two of SuperThrive on the wound. I pulled it back into place, and tightly wrapped it with black plastic electrical tape. That limb never wilted, the fruit ripened and that same limb has huge lemons on it right now. I think you did everything right, so far. Now I would feed the plant some SuperThrive to stimulate growth and some blue liquid fertilizer at 1/2 strength. Keep it out of the wind so the splinted limb won't wiggle. Good luck and let me know what happens. - Terry

It appears to be an Echeveria imbricata. It is very tall because it isn't getting enough sun; it will grow much better with full sun most of the day. Hard to do, if like myself, you live in a northern climate. Next remove all the flower spikes as they are mostly spent anyway. Next, whack the main stem about 2" below the bottom leaves. Allow it to callous for about a week to 10 days and replant in a cactus mix of your choice. Allow it to sit in the pot for a few days and only give it "sips" of water; no heavy drinks. The leaves will get soft. When they become more firm, it is a clue that you may water more frequently. If you remove all of the dead leaves from the remaining stem, give it more light, you may grow more pups. Howard