Thisisme (AZ), I was just wondering, what do you base your recommendation on? undoubtedly you must have air layered a bunch of fig branches, or maybe you've done some research and have verified that a several inch thick trunk can be air layered without much fuss, or maybe you've seen some other people air layer thick branches and they've quickly rooted without any ill effects? please enlighten us on your reasoning for such a recommendation. Tks Joli, given that you do not air layer (per your post), I take issue with your statement "I do not air layer, Because it take just as long to root 6 inch cutting & grow it to 2 feet. As it does to air layer a 2 foot " I do air layer fig branches and other plants as well and in a couple of months I can have a 3 ft long 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch thick fig branch well rooted and cooking in full sun in a 3 gallon pot, where as your cutting is still being babied in the shade and hoping that it would not collapse. I air layer cause it's a 100 pct success rate and fast turn around. John, sounds like your on the edge of a rooftop and you can't see how high the jump is and you're being egged on to jump by others who also can't see the ground. ..... don't jump John....take the stairs down...

I did some fig green-wood air-layering in the past. Only because the tree was either too small (lack of preferred old-wood) and/or it was a precious/rare tree. Sometimes, I even air-layered just the growing tip. I use either Gene's peat-moss seed-pellet method if the twig is thin, or rooter-pots if the twig is fat. In both cases, I left the rooting medium visible (plastic) so that I can watch the roots. Do not girdle - green wood snaps off very, very easily. Support the air layered branch and tie it to a stake. This prevents snapping by any wind and also prevents the rooter-pot from moving around relative to the twig (bad news for any developing tender roots). Be patient! I think green wood takes longer to root. After that, let the roots develop well before cutting. To give you an idea, old wood takes ~4 weeks to root, while green wood may take twice as long. Depending on the root/leaf ratio, a humidity dome may also help after cutting the twig. Pot in the shade. George (NJ).

I would suggest you leave the plant(s) as is do not remove BUT do keep the soil around the plant DAMP not wet. this will prevent the roots (but not the soil) from freesing

beaner, I know you have this obsession with that volunteer callery pear seedling growing on the roadside. Fuzzy photos, but I'm suspecting that stuff is callus material/root primordia... doubt they'll root now... I'd have left 'em alone for at least 3 months, or until I could tell they had roots, before I cut them off. Read up on t-budding... you can t-bud from the object of your obsession onto a suitable rootstock (another pear),probably as early as late June.