Not all 4-way switches have the connections placed the same. I suspect that the problem is there- at least that is where I would start. Do you have an ohmmeter? Do you still have the old 4-way switch? If so, test both the old and new switches to determine the connection paths. Threw away the new box too quickly? "Act in haste, repent at leisure". Can you look at another box at the store?

Hello brusso There is always a chance that some of your switches are worn out...and must be replaced⦠Assuming that the switches worked previously, and that only the switch terminal connections are wired wrong, I advise the following procedure. First off, did all the switches ever work right?? If not, TURN OFF THE BREAKER TO THE 4 WAY SWITCHES Then the first thing I would do is open the boxes and take out both 4 way switches... Take off all the wires (except the GROUND WIRE) that are on the switch. Then WIRE NUT each of the 2 traveler wires from the incoming cable to each of the outgoing cable traveler wires. . Do the same for the other 4 way switch.. This will bypass the 4 way switches... Now you can work with just the 2-3 way switches Assuming that the switches worked previously, and that only the switch terminal connections are wired wrong, I advise the following procedure. If you are comfortable using a voltmeter. Follow these easy steps (for 2 - 3 way switches). 1) Turn the power OFF and physically remove both switches, and take off the wires from the switches only. You do NOT have to remove the GROUND WIRE. This will leave 6 exposed wires (3 in each box). 2) Turn the power ON and identify the HOT wire (it will be the only one of six). Measure between each wire and the metal boxes or GROUND WIRE until you find it.(remember this wire) Then turn power back OFF. Mark this wire 3) The HOT wire found in step 2 is the COMMON wire, and goes on the DARKEST screw of the switch. The other 2 wires can go on either of the two remaining screws. Wire this switch (#1) back up and put it back into the box. This switch (#1) is now correct and you can focus on the other switch. (#2). 4) Turn the power back ON and identify a HOT wire at switch box (#2). Then toggle the (#1) switch and identify another HOT wire at box (#2). The COMMON wire at this switch (#2) box is the wire that was NOT HOT. (remember this wire) Then turn power back OFF. Mark this wire 5) With the power OFF, wire up the second switch, The COMMON, wire goes on the DARKEST screw of the switch. Then wire up the two HOT wires to the two other screws. Once you get the 2 - 3 way switches working, you can now wire in the 4 way switches. The 4 way switch will have either four screws, one pair will be a dark color the other will be a brass color. Or the switch itself will be marked "IN and "OUT.. Put the wires from one cable to the "IN" screws or the two same color screws. Then put the wires from the other cable to the "OUT" screws or the two screws that are left. Hope this helps Let us know how you made out with your wiring project Have A Nice Day Linesman

When you say that there are those "4 wires coming out of [the] ceiling", are those just the ones that presently "come out", or are they also the only wires in the box? (That is, have you peeked inside the box to see if there are any other wires that aren't "coming out of [your] ceiling"?) If there are other wires in the box, that would be useful to know. My initial take was the same as Normel's--that the outlet was wired to control two things, such as a fan and a light. I still think Normel's "analysis" makes sense, but I'm perplexed that there are apparently two three-way switches (purportedly) involved at different room locations. Am I correct in this interpretation? Did a pair of switches control a light there before you went to swap fixtures? It's possible--though not terribly likely--that a pair of three-way switches used to control a light while only one switch controlled the other function (e.g., fan). If that were the case, and the black wire was the old "fan wire", then wiring the chandelier to the red wire rather than the black might work. (BTW, you need to cap off the unused wire with a wire nut, whichever wire ends up being unused!) What happens when the red is swapped for the black? Can you look at the switch that currently "works" and tell us how it is wired? Not counting any bare ground wire, does it connect with three wires or only two? Colors? Any "history" might help.

I'm betting the new switches are not physically the same as the old ones. On 3b make sure the Black wire from the 2-conductor cable is connected to the Common terminal of the 3-way switch. The replacement and original may not be physically identical though they may be electrically equivalent. On 3a, same thing - make sure the black wire is connected to the Common terminal. It should be marked "Comm" or the screw will be a different color. Remove the 4-way and wire nut the wires together, red to red and white to white. This will enable you to get the circuit working with just the 3-way switches. Once that is done you can work on re-installing the 4-way correctly by following the wiring diagram that comes with it. BE CAREFUL - you do not show the complete circuit diagram and I am making assumptions on what the wires are based on limited information. Double check that the wires truly are connected as shown.