1. It's too dry here to core aerate and though that is not needed once on an organic plan, right now I think it's needed as a jump start. Do I have any other options? Use a soaker hose set on a trickle at the faucet. Leave it on day and night for a full week and then move it about 18 inches away from that spot. I start at the highest part of my yard and work downhill. After you have finished the entire yard, repeat the entire process two more times. That should soften your soil. This works by providing a good environment in the soil for beneficial fungi to grow. 2. My lawn has had some white/yellow patches the past two years, i previously treated with a fungicide, what options do I have organically? Apply ordinary corn meal at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. If you are worried about disease, repeat every two months. You might look for a Weed Hound tool at your local box and garden stores. It's about $20 and worth about $40.

The unmowed photo of side A clearly looks like you have some nut sedge mixed in. I've got some of that too, but it doesn't bother me because it almost looks like St Aug. The nut sedge can easily be removed by hand, but I bet if you cut back a little on your irrigation, it will get choked out by the turf. It looks like there is too much nut sedge to spot treat with vinegar. I've also heard molasses works, but I don't have any experience with that method. Side B looks like you may have some fungus problems. How much are you watering? How often? Be patient and stick with the organic program. It works better, and will cost less long run.

Start by taking a good in depth look at the soil. Even a lawn needs a good healthy soil to grow in. You should know what the soil pH is (most all nutrients are most readily available wit the soil pH in the 6.0 to 7.0 range) and whether the major nutrients are in balance. These simple soil tests mayu also be of some help. 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Your soil is most likely clay and those sandal aerators, as has already been stated, simply will not do the what you expect them too. Mow the grass as high as possible and put the clippings right back where they came from, the lawn. Those clippings can supply up to 1/2 the annual nutrients that lawn will need. Rather than Lawn Restore I would simply spread compost, about 1/4 inch thick each time. The compost will do more to build up organic matter in the soil than would the Ringers. I'd spend more time working on the soil and not worry much about any weeds this year. kimmq is kiommsr

We have been trying to keep an organic lawn in our back and front yards as well for about 3 years. Our first step was to really reduce the size of the lawn by adding a lot of planting beds all around our house. But we have a child and do play outside a lot so I want to keep a lawn area. Our back lack lawn was in horrible shape so we actually solarized with black plastic to kill all the existing weeds and lawn for a full summer, then reseeded with a mix of fine fescue grass. It has been a few years and now there is clover growing all over which I don't mind. This spring we overseeded with the same fescue mix but also added "Mini clover" from Outside Pride to even the existing clover out a bit, topped with a top layer of filtered compost. It is growing lush and thick as of now. Not many weeds (I don't consider clover a weed). We hand pull the dandelions when they come. Mow high; leave the grass clippings; and water deeply. Our front yard was in much better shape, but covered with dandelions. Like you, we are surrounded by neighbors with perfect chemically treated lawns so we do get embarrassed if ours has a lot of dandelions. For this front lawn, over the years we have added layers of filtered compost, about once a year in the spring. We have also used corn meal off and on, but I find it very expensive and am not sure if it has really done anything. We also sometimes spray the lawn with compost tea (once a year.) Then my husband took on the back breaking job of hand digging out the dandelions. After digging each one out he puts a bit of horticultural grade vinegar (that I buy off Amazon) into the hole with a turkey baister. This works really well! Each spring he does have to spend a few hours doing it again, but not nearly as much as that first year. Then the rest of the summer it looks great. We plan to aerate and lightly reseed the front lawn this fall, possibly adding the Mini Clover as well. Not sure yet, as it is looking really well at the moment without the addition. Anyhoo, my recommendation to you would be to aerate again in the early fall, overseed witht he appropriate grass mix, and top with compost. I agree with another poster that your lawn may be helped just with some overseeding. You may as well try it and give it at least another year or two. Outside Pride has a lot of good info on grass seed types and mixes, and if you are so inclined, read about their Mini Clover. You can use it as a stand alone lawn or mixed in with your grass to make it more lush. Their Combat Extreme grass mixtures might work for you too. They have different mixes depending on your zone. That is what we are going to use when we overseed our front yard this fall.