Plan of kitchen as is, suggestions welcome.
The measurements are almost but not quite perfect, I will get a professional to do it right but this is good enough for my purposes now. I want to keep the sink, the doors, and the windows where they are, although I will probably enlarge the window over the sink. The little wall with the pipe isn't moving.
Comments (14)
Buehl
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoilaine
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
Layout Suggestions Welcome
Comments (6)This layout is confusing - what is the actual scale? Or, is it not to scale and we have to work with your "verbal" measurements, not what we see in the layout. While it looks like each square is 1'x1', it doesn't work when I see the 9" spice cabinet a full square's width and the Warming Drawer (?)/MW cabinet looks like 36", not 30". Ditto the base cab b/w the cooktop and ovens. If it's not to scale, we need actual measurements on the drawing - otherwise it's difficult to figure out what dimension is where - especially b/c the Kitchen & Dining area appear to overlap somewhat and are open to other rooms. Where exactly is the "Dining" area? E.g., The Kitchen itself appears to be 16'x16' - not counting the Pantry and desk. Yet you say the left wall is 13' not counting them and that the left wall is really 19' (but, it looks like 16' in the Kitchen + 6' desk = 22' when counting squares). [09/18/2014: I re-read the posts and I misunderstood - the 19' is the "bottom" wall area....2' + 4' + 13' = 19'.] The "Dining Room" - is it to the right of the cooktop/ovens counter run or in front of the ovens? Appliances - this is what you either stated or what I see: 36" cooktop 30" Warming Drawer? (It says "Warm") MW - MW drawer or Countertop MW? 36" standard depth refrigerator Double Ovens - looks like 36"W in drawing...you can probably go as narrow as 31.5" with 30" ovens, but 33" is more common. 24" DW What about the rest of the first floor and how the Kitchen & DR relate to the other rooms? We need to know traffic patterns, etc. as well. While we can look up other threads you may have on other forums, it's usually easier to see everything in the same thread. This post was edited by buehl on Thu, Sep 18, 14 at 0:07...See MoreTeeny tiny Galley kitchen at the beach - all suggestions welcome!
Comments (27)CP-- Our engineered hardwood was installed in 2007, so products may have improved. It was also installed floating, so that may have contributed to problems. After 7 years with it, there was raised wood grain around the dog's water dish, the fridge water dispenser and the dishwasher/sink even though I learned to just keep a cloth handy to quickly wipe up drips. Even though we're shoe-free we still ended up with scratches because of our dog, kids playing and probably my husband and I dropping stuff. I also think it would be nice to just steam mop tile floors since you can't steam mop engineered. That house went into contract in a few hours and closed in three weeks, so the floor probably wasn't an obvious problem to the woman who bought it. Thank goodness:-) I might be picky. If joint fatigue and pain is a possibility at all, I would avoid tile. That's a good tip....See MoreKitchen cupboards and countertop dilemma! suggestions welcome!
Comments (28)I, like you, currently like the look of grey cabinets but like white as well and I think that long-term I'll be glad that I chose white since grey will probably go out of style (or apparently from what I've learned reading this thread it already has). On the other hand, since you're using IKEA cabinets you could just change the doors out in 5 or 10 years if you get the gray & get tired of it. The floors on the other hand are a lot more work to change. I love the color that you picked but with a large family you will probably have a lot of dirt & a dark floor will show it all. In my last house we refinished the hardwood floors and used a beautiful dark stain. With 4 kids & a dog I regretted that dark stain within a few weeks. The natural oak never showed dirt like the dark stain did....See MoreNew house with funky kitchen - suggestions welcome!
Comments (17)UPDATES AS OF JANUARY 2021: existing (and weird) pass-through updated to incorporate design element additional design element created by hubby and father-in-law to break up long wall (turned out there was a pocket door that had been covered up!!) long wall has been dry-walled by professionals ASKS/SUGGESTIONS WELCOME! what do you think of this rug? what color should we do the LONG wall? should we do an accent wall or two back in the breakfast nook? The nook is essentially windowless but does have a skylight. Thanks in advance!!...See Moreilaine
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoilaine
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoI feel like such a dummy. The software I am using will export as a jpg. I spent hours trying to convert a PDF to a jpg. Finally gave up and printed it, took a photo with my phone, etc., etc., etc. If you click on the image it's a nice size. Hockey fan, I am open to the concept of moving the sink.
ilaine
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoAnyway, this is my idea. Except that the pantry door should be hinged the other way. And, actually the sliding glass door could be put in the living room, which means that whole wall becomes useable.
lharpie
8 years ago
lisa_a
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoThis long, narrow kitchen came to mind as soon as I saw your space. The designer used a peninsula - with seating - to divide the room into 2 work zones.
KitchenLab · More Info
KitchenLab · More InfoI adapted the above idea for you.
Here's what I did; structural changes are marked by orange circles/ovals:
I changed the powder room entry to open onto the garage hallway.
I swapped the office closet and kitchen pantry.
I recessed the fridge into the pantry just enough to have room for a 12" deep, floor to ceiling pantry cab between powder room wall and fridge cab. I added another 12" deep floor to ceiling pantry cab to the side of the fridge. If you use your stairs frequently, then change this cab to a 12" pull-out pantry cab facing the window wall.
Because the fridge doesn't take up the entire depth of the pantry, I added bookshelves to the office. Or you can reduce the depth of the office closet and make the office about a foot larger, front to back.
I moved the clean-up sink and DW to the other side of the pipe wall. Not quite as convenient to the DR but this move makes it possible to have a cooking zone where you currently have the sink & DW.
The counters on both sides of the pipe wall are 30" deep. If you're doing custom cabs, ask for them to be made deeper with longer drawer guides. That will give you more storage, plus it helps to camouflage the pipe wall (keep reading).
If you're doing semi-custom or stock, pull the base cabs out from the wall a few extra inches (talk to your GC in advance about this) for the deeper counters.
The upper cabs at each end of the window are to the counter that face each other across the window. These will be for glassware and dishware. If you add a drawer just above the counter, you can store dish towels in one and silverware in the other. The cabs would be like the glass-fronted cabs in this kitchen:
I'm suggesting glass fronts, too, but that's up to you.
Kitchen Transformation · More InfoI added a matching depth cab that sits on the counter on the other side of the pipe wall, facing the DR wall. Once you add a decorative panel to the side of these two cabs, you'll completely hide the fact that there's a wall there.
I added a peninsula between the 2 areas with a seating overhang so that you can sit and prep in the kitchen. You could add a 2nd stool (the red dotted line and red stool) or you can change the overhang's location to the end of the peninsula. Either way, you'll have a nice view out towards the mature trees when you're sitting and prepping.
I'm reusing the current sink's piping for a prep sink under a new, wider window, MOL matching the size of the other window.
I did not center the prep sink under the window. I wanted to give a decent amount of counter to the left of the sink for your husband to work. You share the sink but you each have your own work area.
The 36" induction cook top is against the DR wall with a hood (42" wide recommended) above it. There are upper cabs (green) on either side of the hood.
Instead of putting the ovens below the counter, I moved them to a cab column by the DR doorway. This way, you can be at the cook top and not be in hubby's way when he wants to get to the ovens, or vice versa but the ovens are close enough that if move items from cook top to oven, you only have a few steps to go to transfer a dish.
I spec'd a MW drawer below counter. the counter between entry door and ovens will serve as landing surface for items coming out of the MW and ovens. It may also be wide enough to serve as a 3rd prep area or as a beverage center when you have company.
I debated whether to put the ovens next to the DR doorway or next to the entry doorway. I opted for the former since it's only you and DH. Having counter next to hallway entry instead of between ovens and wall is nicer, IMO, but you could definitely swap them if that fits your needs better.
I didn't work out all the cab sizes, etc - I'll wait to do that once you give us more exact measurements - but this gives you a pretty good idea of what you can do.
A variation on the above would be to move the double ovens to the fridge's location and move the fridge to the oven wall, up against the hallway entry. I would leave the MW drawer MOL where it is since many items often go from fridge to MW.
Anyhoo, that's my idea for you.
blfenton
8 years agolisa_a
8 years agoHere's the plan with the fridge and ovens swapped.
If you own a standard depth fridge, I recommend that you have it recessed into the wall to gain 3" of aisle on the aisle that is your route from kitchen to DR. Or opt for a counter depth fridge in its place. I also moved the fridge towards the entry for the same reason.
I drew Plan A presuming you have a standard depth fridge. Since an oven cab doesn't need to be deeper than 24", I moved the bookshelf wall into the kitchen a bit more than it was in Plan A so that the oven cab is even with the 12" deep pantry to its far right.
I also didn't want to have too great a distance from ovens to counter for a landing zone. NKBA recommends a maximum of 48".
I eliminated the seat at the end of the peninsula since that's now the oven's landing zone.
I made a few notes for cab sizes but they're still fairly rough. Lastly, I shifted the peninsula to the right so that it centers on the pipe wall. You end up with nearly equal aisles, side to side, in each zone.
ilaine
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agolisa_a
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoWe bought Chief Architect but so far, I haven't played with it much. I plan to, just haven't made the time to do so.
Check out deedles' very clever corner storage solution in her reveal thread, Very. Late. Reveal. Small, rustic, white oak kitchen. Pic Heavy (scroll about 1/4 the way down). It's an alternative to corner Susans or blind corner cabinets (BCC). Or, you can void the corners next to the peninsula and put drawers on either side. This is what I did and I'm so glad I did. Here's my corner, trash pull-outs under the sink and drawers for prep items perpendicular to them.
You can see the bottom right corner of my 36" induction cook top in the photo below.
I still have room to spare in my drawers. You can see more of my storage solutions and my floor plan in my reveal thread, 50 Shades of Gray, TKO version
If you haven't already, take a tally of what you need to store, noting what should be stored together and where they should be stored, plus sizes of items, either grouped or individually, depending on what it is. It takes time to do this but It will ensure that you build a new kitchen that fits your needs. When I did my inventory, I realized that a BCC next to my sink would not provide the kind of storage I needed in this area. What I needed were drawers. This saved me money, too, because BCC mechanisms aren't cheap. So glad I did this.
btw, I meant to tell you that there's a much easier way to turn a pdf into a jpeg. Go to http://pdf2jpg.net/ Takes just a couple of minutes or so.
ilaine
8 years ago
sjhockeyfan325