First things first. There are no adjustments and the problem you outline is not common at this time of year or any other time of year. I am going to assume that you have a drilled well that is at least 100 feet deep or more. If you do, then all you will see above ground is a four to six inch diameter steel pipe with an alumimum cap on the top of it. Therefore, you have a submersed pump inside that well that PUSHES the water up a pipe. If you are in an area that gets cold weather, then the pipe coming from the well to the house is supposed to be buried below the normal frost line. That way, the surrounding earth will prevent the water in that line from freexing up. That line coming from the well should enter your home at the same depth and then go directly to the pressure tank. If the pressure tank is located in an area that is constantly warmer than the freezing point, then neither the tank or the pipes will freeze up. The pressure for your water system is controlled by a "pressure switch" that is normally located on the pressure tank. You should be able to find it quite easily because there will be one wire coming into it from your electrical panel and another one leaving it to go to a rectangular box mounted on the wall. The pressure switch turns the pump off when the pressure in the tank reaches a certain point ...... such as 60 pounds. It also turns the pump on whenever the system pressure drops to 40 pounds. If that switch is sticking, then that could be the culprit. You use the words "new house". Is this actually a brand new home is is it just new to you? If it's a brand new home with a recently drilled well, then you should be contacting the builder that sold you the home and he will contact the well driller. In other words, this is a warranty issue and you shouldn't be doing anything that might void that warranty. Let him sort it out. If it isn't the switch, then from what you describe, it does sound as though there is either a restriction in the line from the pump to the pressure tank or...... your pump is faulty. If there is a shut-off valve on the line coming from the pump that is not 100% open, then this could cause the problem. Also, a faulty check valve might be an issue. If you don't know how to conduct electrical testing etc. , then you should just call the company that put the water system in and let them do the repair.

magdiel1975, Actually, it is quite common for a toilet flush to cause a reduction in water pressure in some homes. I have no experience with wells, but I would observe that your water pressure of 28 psi is very low in my experience if I understand your post. Are you saying your pump comes On at 30 psi and secures at 50 psi? I'm used to potable water pressure being something north of 40psi. If my lack of experience in having a well shows my ignorance, I apologize in advance.

Hi Smiley- Sounds a little familiar. I had a new well, 3/4 hp Goulds pump, ample water. After about a year of flawless operation we began to notice "clunking" sounds from the pressure tank. Some were fairly modest, some quite alarming. (Our pressure tank is quite small- fits under a utility sink.) The repairman adjusted the constant pressure valve and all seemed fine for a couple of days. Then it returned. Symptoms worsened and a novel "Swooshing" sound was added (as water ran the wrong way in the supply line!). Repairman took apart the constant pressure valve and removed a small, smooth stone. System tested fine and he left, but the symptoms returned before he got back to the shop a mile away. A new check valve was added somewhere in all this too. Repairman finally removed the pump, didn't like all the readings he got, and so they replaced it. Things have been fine since (about two months.) Nobody can explain just what happened, but there you have it. We were very lucky- a great company to deal with, covered it all under warranty. But we nearly missed the end of the warranty period by waiting to see what it was up to. I'd get it looked at right away. Good luck. Mark

All I can say is that the softener looks a little small, but I don't know that for certain. Big Blue is a brand, not a size - it appears to be alright, but perhaps it isn't because I don't know the size. However, if you are getting that much particulate, perhaps you do have a well problem. It might not be deep enough or have enough holdup, or have a broken casing. In any case, if the well can't be fixed, a backwashing particulate filter would likely be more appropriate. Very fine particulate is very good at plugging filters. Last try. Actual models and sizes. I'm not going to guess based on photographs. Actual analysis - it's "alright" is not analysis. I don't mean to be brusque, but I simply cannot help with the information provided. Untreated water pH, TDS, hardness, particulate (preferably with size distribution), iron, manganese. Or, just call back the folks that installed what you've got and insist that they get it right.