Row Kitchen Reno, Round 3: Hidden Vent or Exposed; How Much Wall Tile?
9 years ago
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Kitchen granite distress - LONG and venting
Comments (23)Okay, I'm here! The thing is, apparently my saying we had been waiting more than two years to have this exact granite on a big beautiful island got to him. He told me as such three or four times just today. He had to push the install off by one day to make sure he had enough guys and was prepared for each step of bringing the slab into the house again. And crazy as it sounds, he took the original slab back out in one piece, too. So clearly it was do-able. And yes, he knew he still had my parents' job to do, so he could have lost a lot more money than just our business... And he also wants to do more business with our builder, so he really needed to get this job right. Here's the best picture I have of the whole slab. Sadly, it is when the new slab is leaning against a wall waiting for them to remove the old slab. Here's a long shot before the raised bar went in. Another long shot. With the raised bar. And a horrible blurry shot. We go back tomorrow (with DH in tow) so we hope to get better pictures. He's better at taking them than I am, so I'll come back and post again. I have step-by-step pictures of them bring the new slab in and reversing the process to take the old slab out in one piece. I also have video of them raising the new slab and setting it in place. It was quite a procedure and I will have to admit that several times I let out a gasp (and maybe one or two "oh sh*t!"s before they were done. The damn slab wobbled side-to-side a couple of times and scared the hell out of me. But in the end, they did it and it's gorgeous. Talk about a center-piece! The fabricator said he will also come back and fix one of the seams after I pointed out I wasn't happy with it. He had already fixed the other seam. And as he said to me, he's only working with three local custom home builders right now, he can't afford to have an unhappy customer. He IS trying to make things right. I can't say I'm completely thrilled with how he handled everything, but we're on the right track. Thanks to everyone for the advice. I know some of you said we should split and move on with another fabricator, but it would have been a huge deal on our end. If we HAD to, we would have, but we had hoped for a good end result without doing that....See MoreRowhouse Kitchen Reno: Round Two (Do we mess with the entry?)
Comments (17)OK, good: it sounds like my original leanings are reasonably sound, especially to want to shorten the wall section on the left that is, for all purposes of flow, unnecessary. Now we see how complicated - therefore expensive (or not) - it is to reduce that bit of clunk. The real question would be whether to infill. We should try to guess how much a change at the entry will affect light getting from the kitchen area into the dining room. In a best case scenario, the width of the entry would narrow, from 48" to ~41-43" (27 or 28" depth on both sides to cover standard counters). So that might not be too bad a change. The lighting in the kitchen should improve some by the time we're done, which might help in all scenarios. We're still looking at options, but we'll certainly be swapping out the kitchen's one (count 'em, one, and very poor) overhead light for recessed lighting, and we're nearly decided on adding a skylight as well. Rebunky: Doing the little half wall at right might be a good idea to weigh. Thanks for the example picture, and also the photoshop of my current idea. The visuals really do help. I'm likewise unsure about the "break" I currently have in the back counter. It may be that rather than tie in those back cabinets, it'd look good just drop a freestanding piece of furniture into the space. I'm also wondering about running a bit of counter between the two locations. There's a couple of ways that might happen. I'm not sure if this'll make sense without a diagram, but if we add a 15"D cabinet to that well at the final 67" of the kitchen space, as shown, and then run the counter straight backward to the main run of cabinets, as shown, the bridge space (now left open) would be 10" deep and the passthrough area adjacent to the powder room consistently 32" wide. So I'd need either adequate support for 10" x ~30" run of counter there, or to build some storage 10" deep. I found this photo of someone negotiating a narrow area of rowhouse kitchen in DC, and it came off really well:...See MoreBudget kitchen Reno
Comments (21)Ok, so obviously not practical to put dishwasher on the left side of the sink. Is the corner cabinet next to your range a lazy susan? Is that where you are storing pots and pans currently? Are you sure you only need one 36-inch drawer cabinet? When looking through your pictures, it seems you need space for pet food, kitchen electrics, trash can, k-kups and whatever else you're storing in the little cabinet with colored drawers and the sideboard where you have the Keurig. Speaking of which, you need counter space for the canisters and coffee maker. I see potential in rearranging some of your existing cabinets and purchasing a couple additional base and upper cabinets. I'm almost positive you can find matching, basic cabinets, off-the-shelf at a big box store such as HD or Lowe's. Just an idea to throw out there for consideration....See MoreIsland in kitchen...cabinet sides exposed or hidden?
Comments (27)Pardon me for struggling to be convinced on a single tier counter. The island would not be a slab of granite or quartz. It would be a high grade laminate. If anything it should be less of a problem because laminate isn't as heavy as stone. Stone really needs extra support. I'd suggest asking on the kitchen forum and actually calling out Joseph Corlett as he's the resident expert on countertop fabrication. The part that overhangs the back of the cabinet would need to be supported. How do you support that? The overhang also would need to be 14 to 16 inches. Same way You'd support a stone counter. Hidden brackets between the end panel of the cabinet. Outlet wire would run through the cabinet and then you'd have an outlet on the side of the cabinet? Plug in a mixer, now have a kid or pet walk by and snatch that cord. Horrible design. Pop-up outlet? That costs how much? That lasts how long? That doesn't get crap and water in it??? Please! What is the idea there? Or you could do what I'm doing on the side and put a strip of plug mold up right under the counter overhang on the side. Gives you more than 2 plugs and it's not far enough down to be a problem. You're creating problems where there are none actually. What is your guy's idea of the bar height I speak of? Is it 42"? Or is it more like 50"? I'd like the facts so the decisions are easier. Standard bar height is 42" high. Counter height is 36" high and table height is 29-30" high. I don't see the benefit of one height when I don't need that big of space since there is plenty of counter space on the cabinet side. I can't physically reach 40" from me. That's how wide it would be. Do you have children? Do they like to do homework near you? Guests who like to help you cook? Elderly family members? Very young children? I know slabs of stone look good at one level. So does laminate. Just because it's laminate doesn't make it an inferior product. Just a note. I'm on the wrong side of 60 and while getting up into the bar height stools was not a problem even 7 years ago, I find that each year it does get a bit more difficult. And I train at a gym 3x a week doing things like step ups with weights, so it's not like I'm out of shape....See MoreRelated Professionals
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