Looking for a replacement power relay
indytim640
8 years ago
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indytim640
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoindytim640
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Engine Replacement for DR Power Leaf Vac
Comments (4)You don't say, but I'm assuming your existing shaft is 3/4" and the new Predator has 5/8". Granger, among others has what you need. They are about the least expensive at $2.50 each when bought in three-pack. See below: Here is a link that might be useful: Grainger 3/4 - 5-8 reducer...See MoreWANTED: leaves to replace plants lost to power outages
Comments (1)Hi woodsidetrader, what leaves are you looking for? Maybe I can help you out when the weather warms. davioletman...See MoreHarman Accentra powers on, but won't run after replacing fuse.
Comments (0)Hello everyone, I am new to the forum, but have been a long time fan of GardenWeb. There appear to be a lot of good people on this web site, happy to share their skills and knowledge. With that said, our circa 2008 (bought by previous home owner) Accentra insert worked fine until last week when I discovered a blown fuse was the cause of why it randomly (and instantly) shut off. I ordered the specific fuse online (for those who don't know, the replacement is a 120V/250V fast acting 6A glass fuse that measures 6mm x 30mm; the more common 20mm size will be too short). While waiting for the fuses to arrive, I took the time to thoroughly clean out the insert- including taking out the medallion and side plates and cleaning out the ports/vents in each corner. I discovered the left plate was rusted shut and found, once I pried it off, wet gunk and a lot of rust packed around the port/vent. It looks like this side of the insert was not properly venting for a long time. Once I put everything back together and replaced the blown fuse, I turned it on and discovered a problem. The power light will come on and when I turn up the temperature, the activity light and combustion motor light turn on. However, the actual combustion blower/fan does not power on. The insert remains silent and the feed motor never powers on (nor does the light turn on). Oddly enough, when I put the feed rate controller in the test mode to force the feed auger to turn on, it does not actually turn on, but the combustion blower/fan does finally turn on. FYI, I was not using a surge protector and the norm is for me to turn off the insert abruptly by disconnecting it from the outlet via a remote control. I know, probably bad practice. My hypothesis are the following: 1) A surge caused the fuse to blow, but somehow not fast enough causing damage to the controller PCB. Visually, I see no signs of shorting or overheating. 2) In order for me to get to the fuse, I had to disconnect the controller board from its various connections and wiring bundle. I noticed the two blue wires with spade connectors had very little slack. The wire bundle was also tight. Perhaps me tugging at it caused a wiring issue? 3) Maybe the severely blocked and strangely wet port/vent caused a sensor to go bad or a motor to burn out? I would love to get this running sooner than later, but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot it. What could have caused this issue? If anyone has an ideas what I should do or check out next, please share. Thank you! - ÃÂukasz...See MoreRe-laying brick/paver walkway in backyard, need advice!
Comments (10)I pretty much agree with the above comments. The long joints are a bit wide, but overall the path looks in plane. If you wanted to tidy up the long joints, you could leave the center course of pavers in place and butt the two side courses up to it. However, you'd need to remove the side courses and clean the weeds out (by carefully cutting) first WITHOUT disturbing any of the sand. IE, you must lift the paver very carefully and replace it by setting straight down, not sliding. You could try a couple to see if it's going to be worth the bother, before you remove a whole row. If it's not worth the bother, just remove weeds and fill the joint with sand as everyone says. If you want to change the grade for drainage, lift all the pavers and create a new sand base. Tamp the base, screed the sand setting bed, set the pavers and tamp after they are all set. A QUALITY woven landscape fabric placed below the base will add stability, but it looks like you don't need it because all the pavers look in plane. It will NOT help you fight weeds.The way I take care of weeds is to kill them with glyphosate (Round-Up) and then apply Preen (per mfg. periodic schedule) to the path. It works quite well....See MorePaul Natale
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