Can you help identify what is on top of my hardwood floors
9 years ago
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- 9 years ago
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engineered hardwood floor over old hardwood floor
Comments (14)You need to do a little more archeological digging still. You need to know the whole construction of the floor before you can decide how best to install something new. I'd take up that plywood piece in the kitchen and see what's under it. It's higher than the surrounding floor, so needs to go. You should also be able to see from there what subfloor is under the original kitchen hardwood. It's too bad the space under your entryway is finished, but I'd still do some exploring from below to see what's under there, and to figure out the fix to stop it from squeaking. Is it drywall below or a drop ceiling? I know it probably seems like a pain to tear out drywall, but if you cut out a clean patch, like 2' x the width of the joists, it'll be relatively simple to repair. Just make sure to cut it down the center of the joists so that there's room to screw the patch piece to it later. Cut the hole under the area that squeaks the most, if you can. Have someone walk on and watch the floor from below to see what's moving. It might be as simple as pounding in a couple shims from below, or face-nailing a loose board from above. You want to find out what's underneath the hardwood. It might be laid directly on the floor joists, or there might be 10" wide boards that the hardwood is nailed to. Another thought is to take out a board in the hallway, since that's not original and you want to replace it. See what the subfloor is there. I am a bit puzzled at why, when you've stripped the kitchen down to the original hardwood, it's still higher than the hallway floor. Is your current surface perhaps not the original kitchen hardwood? Peeling back the plywood area will help determine that. BTW, I haven't heard of that stop squeaking product you linked to, so can't offer any personal opinion. And don't pour self-leveling compound over top of hardwood. It needs to go over plywood....See Morei know what i want in my hardwood floor but need help finding it
Comments (2)We have visited two so far, one being a very high end store.seems like everything we have found is rotary cut not plain sawn. I was hoping the experts could refer me to specific brands. The Anderson's have the distressed finish but not plain sawn, same with Shaw. The mirage and lauzon are plain sawn but not a lot of distressed options....See MoreNeed help identifying hardwood floors
Comments (4)Could be Amendoim or... Rift & Quartered or Quartensawn Red Oak with a stain? It's very pretty! BR111 has Amendoim in 3/4" solid. Is this solid or engineered? Amendoim looks alot like Heart Pine in coloring but has much smaller knots (at least what I've seen) If you have a board somewhere, like in a closet, that you can pull up, there might be some information on the back of it as to the manufacturer and that would give you a place to start....See MoreHardwood Floor Top Coat Disaster - pooled acrylic help!
Comments (5)thanks for the comments, both! So, indeed orange peel/fisheye. He tried something yesterday, by buffing down and treating it with something. Then reapplied the top coat. It was much better, but the pattern is still there so he's going to have to sand right down. The issue is that the source of the problem cant' be identified. We went over the many different potential causes. He repaired 2 sections of flooring from damage and removal of marble in front of the fireplace, and the effect was present on the new wood as well. So that to me, logically, means it's not parafins, oil or silicone residue in the wood. Also, the orange peel is uniform over the entire 500+sqft of floor. Humidity, temperature, air flow etc are some others... I raised contamination (applicator, batch of finish, residual sawdust etc) but I suppose that I would agree that it would be extremely strange to have the effect cover the entire floor if it was contamination. He's not spraying. It's still possible but... likely its the application, or the product. It happened after the 3rd coat. Other floorers he consulted mentioned a couple of similar cases - after the 3rd coat. He was confident that there was enough time to cure between coats, but I'll insist that we leave larger gaps and wait. So maybe there's something off with the product or the conditions causing the product to behave like after 3 coats have been applied. Potentially. All to say though, he's sanding down and starting anew. We're disappointed of course, it's been stressful because every time we return home it's a mess. It's delayed the reno, and of course the conditions in the house with dust and fumes isn't ideal over such a long time. This seems like one of those things that is never sure as a cause...? Thanks again for your comments!...See MoreRelated Professionals
Danbury Flooring Contractors · Wesley Chapel Flooring Contractors · Willoughby Flooring Contractors · Chattanooga Tile and Stone Contractors · Three Lakes General Contractors · Ames General Contractors · Anderson General Contractors · Browns Mills General Contractors · Country Club Hills General Contractors · Dover General Contractors · Forest Hills General Contractors · Jacksonville General Contractors · Mishawaka General Contractors · Seal Beach General Contractors · South Windsor General Contractors- 9 years ago
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