Without pics or measurements it's impossible to give an accurate answer. Shrinkage cracks are standard. As it cures, concrete shrinks about 1/16" per ten feet. The mandatory government warranty programme Construction Performance Guidelines I work under say the following about poured concrete foundation wall cracks: "1.11 CONDITION CAST-IN-PLACE CONCRETE FOUNDATION WALL IS CRACKED Acceptable Performance/Condition Cracks resulting from normal shrinkage are acceptable; cracks in excess of 6 mm in width are not acceptable. Warranty One-Year Work and Materials Cracks resulting from normal shrinkage of materials caused by drying after construction are excluded from the statutory warranty. Action Walls with cracks exceeding the acceptable condition shall be repaired. Remarks Concrete walls naturally crack during curing due to shrinkage. Where lateral or vertical movement is evident, further investigation may be required. The colour and texture of a repaired area may not match the surrounding concrete"

I have not used either of these brands. Bentonite has a long history of being used to stop water flow. Your contractor is using it in conjunction with a permeable dimple membrane, presumably so the water flows through and activates the Bentonite. Only because I have successfully used similar methods, I'd be partial to the Tremco, plus mats. It provides two layers of protection. Neither of these methods will likely protect you against rising water tables which will come up through the floor. In any case, manufacturer recommended application methods should be followed to a tee. It's good to see the progress builders have made in this area. When I first applied to use crystalline waterproofing on a foundation in 1991, I had to present evidence to the building department that it was a suitable substitute for the then Code minimum asphalt cutback. Here is a link that might be useful: Waterproof Magazine: Dimple Membranes

A diagonal crack like this is definitely one from differential settlement. As Worth say, notify the contractor in writing (as a future record), and request he excavate the soil in the vicinity of the crack and determine: 1) the depth and extent of the crack; 2) the condition of the soil beneath the foundation in this area to see if it has been properly backfilled and compacted. Continue to monitor this crack, with tape and or permanent weatherproof marks to see if it is moving and/or increasing in width. Good luck with your project.

One waterproofs from the outside, not the inside on a new home. If there is a concern about a great amount of water, the builder can add further barriers to the outside and under the slab, as per the Delta illustration below. (The footing barrier, which stops rising damp, has been part of the Ontario Building Code for more than 10 years already.) As for finishing the basement walls, any space between insulation and the wall will short-circuit the effectiveness of the insulation. Unless there is an interior footing drain to collect any water behind the interior membrane, all the plastic will do is trap moisture for mould growth between the plastic and the foundation wall. It looks like the builder intends to pour over the plastic that extends onto the bottom of the excavation. I don't see the logic behind this arrangement.