No idea. I can see it under Garden Forums.

I am in colder zone, but temps in Summer are quite god. Succulents are outdoors, in full sun, whole day. You could have bit of 'microclimate' - if there is solid surface on your terrace; otherwise most succulents will probably enjoy the sunlight. Exceptions would be most Haworthias - they don't need such strong sunlight. Do you have list of succulents you want to get? Some other plants may prefer bit of dappled sunlight around noon-time, when sunlight is strongest. When are you planning on putting them outdoors? I do not put leaves and rootless cuttings into strong sunlight until they grew roots, and always acclimatize them first.

Technically, old wood is woody growth a plant puts on up until the point in time the vegetative terminal bud at branch ends is set in fall or winter at the end of the year's growth. New wood is growth that begins at the beginning of the subsequent growth period and includes all wood distal to the terminal vegetative bud scar. For the purpose of creating propagules, highly lignified new wood can be and is treated in the same manner as old wood. I regularly grow woody material to hts of 8-10 feet (3M) before cutting it back only inches from ground level as the first step toward creating larger bonsai. All trees considered focal points of the images in the following 3 shots were 8-12ft (3-4M) tall when they were chopped and lifted (on the same day) from the ground. All trees, and many others like them, are well along on their journey toward becoming bonsai. I treat nearly all types of woody material in similar fashion, even if they are being groomed only as palm-size trees. There are a few trees and woody plants that shouldn't be cut back so hard there is no longer any foliage (but lavender is not one of them, mostly evergreens, like pines and junipers. Even then, the rule doesn't hold fast for the entire genus. maple^^ Maple^^ L-R Chinese quince, hedge maple, bald cypress, American hornbeam If the plant (lavender) is in the ground, there is almost no chance the plant (stump, if you will) will do anything other than back-bud profusely. There is a far greater chance the propagule (the part of the plant between points 2 and 3) will fail when treated as a cutting than the already rooted plant. If you still harbor concern that your plant won't survive if you cut it back into old wood, like the trees in the images have been, simply leave the first (lowest branch) attached to the trunk/stem when you take your propagule. The plant could also be stooled. Just cut the bottom out of a nursery can, slip it over the plant, fill with soil up to half-way between line 2 and 3, cut the top of half-way between 3 and 4, and keep soil moist. When spring comes, all branches above the single trunk will have roots. You can strip a swath of bark off of the outside lowest part of each branch above the stem before you fill the pot with soil if you like, to help ensure faster root formation. Lots of ways to skin that cat because lavender is easy to propagate. You can also ground layer by making a depression in the soil, pinning a branch in the depression, and covering the branch with soil. Separate the branch from the mother plant in spring. Notice 2,3, & 4 in the sequence. At 4, instead of a mound, you would use a pot with most of the bottom cut out, slipped over the plant and filled with soil. Al

I don't think you can hurt Wm. Baffin. Mine has been whacked almost to the ground, pruned leaving only 3 main canes, left unpruned for years, you name it, and it doesn't seem to care. I would just clean it up, removing all the dead canes and prune the remaining canes to just above a good node or set of leaves, shaping it as you prune, give it a shovel full of compost or manure, and let it regain it's height. It'll leaf out again.