Hello, if I may? I suspect you are oeverwatering your plants since you said that the sun hasn't been out to much lately, and it is planted in such a big pot, that teh foliage is just about gone, and that you use your finger method that will never reach to the bottom root zone of your tree. As Al suggested, the dowel method is a much safer way to check for moisture than the finger for this reason. If it is being weakend by poor cultural habits, then the next worst thing is how attractive it looks and tastes in such a weaken state to several pests. I would use a magnfying glass and check for mites for sure, since not only over watering can cause severe leaf loss, but so too those buggers and possibly mealy at the same time. Is there any way you can take a picture of that plant and teh white fuzzy pest? What kind of mix are you using that allows you to water that much almost every week, especially this time of the year? Also because your tree is defoliating, I can't even see how it can take up water that quick in such a short amount of time. If it is planted in a bagged mix, in a container that size, I would think more than a week to dry out, no? It sounds like a circle of issues all tied together and one needs to be adressed asap with the other root problems to follow. As for insectical sops, well those never worked for me. Also you should be able to get all surfaces, now that you said that your tree is practically defoliated. Maybe a good horticultural oil or kneem? I hope all works well for you. "Al" is certainly the one to work with along with a few others when it comes to trees. He has saved me a many trees and I have learned so much from him.;-) Mike

--"Leaf shows water stress, as in not enough getting to the top. "-- Curious if the soil is reading so soggy why it's having that issue. I wonder what else would stop it from being able to pull the water from the ground. I have a total of 5 trees planted pretty much the same way and all the others dry out in a few days to a week, and this one does not. --"If still hot, temporary shade might help." -- Over the weekend I removed the red wood mulch entirely to see if that helps with the soil drainage, and did a mulching of pure compost in the basin and 1 foot around the bricks for now. Last week I also added a 30% shade sunblock cloth over the tree to hope to reduce the direct heat. So far no change. --"Using your handy ever-present moisture meter -- a finger -- inserted into the soil and rootball is much more reliable than a meter device. "-- I did so and basically found, yet it's damp to moist. Pretty much a less accurate version of what I found by metering. not sure why that is more reliable. --"Also check for borer damage around the graft union"-- Could you be a bit more specific on what I'm looking for an where; I'm a bit new to fruit trees and still figuring it out. Appreciate any additional info. --"When you say you dug a big hole did you dig it deep or wide?'-- Mostly wide, the depth was about the same, maybe a little less than the root ball with about 2-3 feet out in every direction. Since the topsoil in the yard is basically exactly the same as a kid's sandbox - seems like it would need something a bit healthier to get started in. I can take a look to see if it seems like it sunk: but you're saying it should be ok to pull and replant a bit higher if so? --"Is it in a spot where other water may be filtering down to it (at the bottom of a hill, or in a bowl). Other considerations are the type of soil : If it is mostly clay, you may have created a large pot which the water can't get out of." It's on the same level as the rest of the yard and honestly we've had like 0 inches of rain this year so the only water in the yard is what is being applied directly (no runoff to speak of). The soil is sand, very very loose sand. I have a total of 5 trees planted pretty much the same way and all the others dry out in a few days to a week, and this one does not. --"Putting compost in the planting hole was a mistake because it's causing the water to not drain."-- I'm interested in this as the compost had the exact same consistency of the bagged garden soil - so just curious why it would hold water- or are we saying it all will?

Cheryl, Superthrive is very helpful, but if a tree has been over and under-watered a number of time, NOTHING will bring a dead tree back. Since you've been feeding, I'd withhold food until spring. I think you're trying to force growth on a tree that is trying to rest. One thing is improve the environment. If the temp is 55 degrees or ever in this room, I'd remove the lights. I can see this done if a tree is outdoors or in a totally unheated room, but not in your heated house. Next I'd make sure the house has adequate humidity. 50% or higher. NOt only is humiditity good for plants but people, too. Thirds, air circulation is important. A ceiling fan, even in an adjactent room helps circulate heat and humidity. Checking for insects is important, especially this time of year. Your leaves are yellowing for a reason. It could be the reasons Suzanne mentioned, and/or it can be bugs or iron deficiency. I wonder about the definciency since you mention the veins protruding color, more pronounced. Shake the tree to remove yellowed leaves, and lift felled leaves from the soil..leaving them will only attract insects, including fungus gnats. It's important familiarizing yourself with proper waterings. water only when top 3" of soil is dry. You can either stick your finger in the soil..if it comes out moist wait a few more days and check..if dry, then water. Another way it to life pot..if it feels light then most likely it needs watering..If heavy do not water, and do the finger test.Good luck, Toni

"Do you loose all your leaves when you let it go semi-dormant?" You must have asked me this same question two times at least already!! I guess you don't believe it. But no, I don't loose ANY leaves in the winter when I grow them under chilly and dry conditions (December until mid-February). I do not keep my limes (Persian or Key limes) in cool conditions (they are much more tropical). Citrus and hot, dry interior conditions just don't go together so I have given up on anything but limes in the house itself. For the rest of the Citrus collection (in the garage), day temps under glass are now in the low to mid 60's even when it's only in the mid 50's outside--that's NOT cold and the air is fairly humid. As I said, my challenge is really just January--the rest of the year is a cake walk. PS. One of the reasons I am anxious to get them out of the garage is that a stronger sun and warmer conditions means that I have to be much more attentive to watering as they dry out much faster now. I wish I could say that I dote over them in the Winter, but I virtually forget about them from about early December until mid-February.