Relax guy, no problem Mon. You got new sod laid late in the season, you are going to have weeds so get use to it. Personally I would not worry about the Poa, but if it irritates you spray everything green with Round Up. Just make sure the Bermuda is dormant. In the meantime relax until the end of February. Last week of February or first week of March Apply a product called AMAZE. It is a long half life Pre-Emergence herbicide. Water it in and relax for a few of weeks. Once you are certain all chances of frost have past, get the lawn mower out and scalp the lawn down. I do not mean down to dirt, but enough to get all the dormant brown grass blades cut. Rake up all the debris and relax again for a few weeks until the weather warms up. Once you see some green sprigs of Bermuda growing after it starts to warm up, apply your first fertilizer application using a balanced fertilizer. Go to your local Home Depot and buy some Lesco 20-5-10 or 15-5-10 to do the job. Apply at the proper rate of 5 pounds per 1000/ft2 and water it in. From that point on find the BERMUDA BIBLE and follow the directions and RELAX.

Lawn care doesn't really need to be complicated. You'll get a lot of really good advice on these boards. You'll get a lot of really bad advice, too. You'll also get advice that falls somewhere in between. I'm probably somewhere in between. I'll try to give you my take on lawncare, most of it gleaned from here. I've never considered it the consensus that lawns shouldn't be fertilized in spring. The consensus I've gathered is that they shouldn't be seeded in the spring or fertilized in the summer. Here's what I do: Mow high (around 3.5-4 inches). It may take some getting used to, but it helps the lawn Mulch mow, unless there is a fungus or other disease issue. Spread Starbucks grounds during the spring and fall. Water deeply and infrequently (I try for an inch a week, all in one day). Apply some source of fast release N after the topgrowth has stopped but while the grass is still green. If your soil is sandy, use a slow release N source, but one that doesn't require microbial activity (something like sulfur coated urea for example). Use a Weed Hound for most weed control and spot spray what that doesn't take care of. If I'm going to seed, it's in the fall Mow progressively shorter until it's as low as I can stand Core aerate to expose more soil Seed Water several times a day until it sprouts Avoid mowing until the new grass is tall enough to mow If I feel I need a spring seeding, I do a modified dormant seeding and seed in the late winter or early spring. That's it. I don't do anything special. I don't do anything complicated. My only wrinkle is that I'm purposely stressing my lawn in order to try to get a nontraditional lawn of native grasses in the hopes that I can go from watering once a week to watering once a month.

It looks a lot like Poa Annua, but it could also be regular Kentucky Bluegrass. My KBG is flowering right now, which is consitant with your pictures (I'm in zone 7 as well) If you had Fescue sod before, it probably had Bluegrass in it(a lot of sod farmers use it as companion to tall fescue in the transition zone) and that's what you are seeing. If you sprayed roundup and killed everything, then sodded or seeded with bermuda, then it is Poa Annua. You could also have a next door neighbor ( or very nearby) with a Fescue/bluegrass lawn and contamination is very possible by seed. Anyway, if is Poa Annua, you don't have to do anything, it will die on its own with the arrival of summer and by natural causes. If is Kentucky Bluegrass however, it will persist in your climate. If you really have bluegrass and don't want it, you can wait until Fall when your bermuda goes dormant, then spray roundup on it. That will take out the Bluegrass, but will not harm the Bermuda. More information than you probably needed.

Kathyga, Thanks for posting in response to my questions and concerns of the weeds, they are out of control. Kathy, please tell me where you picked up the corn gluten and how much you paid. the weeds in my yard are giving me nightmares, and I've had a long week work wise then the rain. ARRRGGH! But, alas, today I had a glimer of hope. I was coming from a business related trip from callaway gardens and stopped at "Country Garden Farms" in Newnan on my way home. i found it as an organic distributor online. I picked up two bags of "Nature Safe 10-2-8." It is feather meal, bone meal, blood meal, Potash, and i can't remember what else. It also has Calcium and other elements/minerals? (I'm not a scientist!) which I have heard is good for our kind of red clay soil and that weeds like calcium deficient soil (I'm gonna try to find info on that so that I know it to be true). The other reason that I'm excited is because I see the bermuda coming out of dormancy, much more than 2 weeks ago. So I will mow my weeds down and bag them at least the next two times I mow until the bermuda gets thick and tall enough that I'm mowing it also. Then I will go back to mulch mowing (grasscycling). I will also sharpen my blade befor e I mow the bermuda. So I'm just hoping I will get my lawn thick enough to impede the weeds. My bagging the weeds I'm mowing right now is to keep the seeds from spreading. Oh, I'll also spot treat the perennial weeds and the dandelions. I'm just trying to encourage you, don't fret over those annual weeds, it will soon be too warm for what is blooming now and as the bermuda grows it will begin competing with these weeds. That's my plan for now, don't know what I'm gonna do for fall and winter next year yet, guess it depends on what things look like around August / September. One more thing, I don't think your plan from last summer sounds so haphazard, I've read on here where guys just get something organic and put it out and they say things are working. And these guys that are putting out 20 or even 30 pounds of fert per 1000 sq feet either have tiny yards or fat wallets. I have roughly 8,000 to 10,000 sq feet of lawn. Ok one more thing. the guy at Country Gardens and Farm in Newnan, I think he was the owner, he knew a lot abou organic lawn care, he said that they can do a soil test that gives you not only the PNK, but also a breakdown of percentages of calcium, and other things that are in there as well as how many microbes etc. you have. it is much more in depth than what you get at the county extension. It's like $25 but he also said you might be able to do it directly with the lab which is in Memphis, I think. If you give them a call, ask for Mike. He was very helpful to me on the phone for about 20 minutes, I'm sure he could tell you how to get the soil sample. If you are ever on that side of town check the place out, it was very nice, loads of shrubs, trees etc, and it was rustic and nice. It was pouring down rain today but still loads of people there. Here's the link: http://www.countrygardensfarm.com/ In a month or so I will post how my lawn is looking after the Nature Safe has had time to work. Let's keep each other encouraged and informed. So I'll let you know how I like the Nature Safe, it was $35 a #50 bag. I needed more than one bag so i got 2, which gives me a little more than #10 pounds per 1000 square feet. Ok, enough for now I'm rambling. Let me know how its going and where you got the corn Gluten. Kevin