I see similar leaves every year and do not know what causes them. My plants seem to get affected after a sharp drop in temperature after some very hot days. They always continue to grow and produce. The weird leaves may only last for 1 or 2 branches then return to normal. As the deformed leaves grow in size they often get more and more normal looking. Acid rain? Air polution? Herbicide drift? I don't know but I think you will still get tomatoes, at least I did for the last 3 years with plants that developed leaves like the ones you posted.

CONGRATS!!! It is soooooooooooooooo exciting to see a new bird, and especially one as gorgeous as the Blue Grosbeak. I have lived in the South all of my life, and I have seen one of them. I was living just SW of Atlanta at the time.~Angie

Yeah it's new but I'm giving it a lot more light than the Lowes I bought it from did. I'll try to do some more searching. edit: I found a few things that mentioned there are some tall pachyveria hybrids that aren't actually victims of etiolation but just happen to be tall. I will admit it's leaves are quite fragile though. I may update this as time goes on

oof, nice one, NL. You're basically going to try re-rooting the rosette so I recommend sifting the fine particles from your substrate. Then replant in as small a pot as you can get (yes, smaller than the one you are using). The key is to be able to allow the moisture to evaporate quickly when you water. Watering, in this case, should be shallow and but frequent. For faster results, make sure it gets warm during the day (20C-25C) but cold at night (10C to 16C). It's the difference that is important. I do this by putting rooting haworthias right against my pathetically insulated glass doors that should really be replaced by now. But you get the idea. Another technique is to just water the pot then sit it on cotton cloth so the excess moisture can be wicked out. I find there is less room for error this way though; but you might find it easier yourself. Fresh roots look like this: That white bit is the active root, if your plant has those, you will need to target that small nub when you water. If over-watered, that growing root will melt and the plant has to start over. The longer roots in this photo are old ones that are about to whither and are no longer moving water from the substrate to the plant which is why this one was dehydrated. Remember, haworthias are very slow plants. This can take weeks to months.