Lawn Aeration Question
gle2011
7 years ago
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gle2011
7 years agoRelated Discussions
What to add to lawn after aeration?
Comments (9)Waterman One of the best things you can do for your lawn at this time is just plain top dress with some good top soil. Spread it thinly so as not to smother your grass. There are many benefits to top dressing but most people don't seem to bother. Good soil top dressing gets all the little critters going to work for the benefit of your lawn. Don't even think of rakeing up the cores, they do the same thing. If it were me I would lightly reseed also. I know all the dumb arguements about reseeding in the spring and they are just that. Dumb Mix some seed in with the dirt and some of it will fall in the holes and with some moisture it will germinate. I reseed every season in the year and also aerate. Try it a couple times, your going to like it. Lawndivot...See MoreO.K. to core aerate bermuda lawn in fall?
Comments (9)Hi Neal, Great questions, Ideally, Bermuda and other warm season turf grasses should be core aerated during the spring or early summer, and after the grasses have broken dormancy. The reason for this is that the grass will benefit from the aeration throughout the primary growing season, which is May through October. Core aeration will typically benefit turfgrass by improving air movement through the roots system, enhancing water and nutrient utilization, and reducing thatch. If you aerate in the fall, the Bermuda will not enjoy the maximum benefit of the core aeration, as the turfgrass will begin to enter a state of dormancy in the fall. Additional problems could occur if water freezes in the core holes around the roots and crown of the grasses. This could promote winter injury. I highly suggest waiting until late spring to perform this cultural practice. Thanks for your Question,and enjoy a great fall season !...See MoreProper core aeration and commercial lawn care companies
Comments (6)Would not recommend a commercial service. My next door neighbor used a company called TruGreen (I think it was onced called Chemlawn). I told him to make sure they do more than one pass. He told them but they said it wasn't necessary. After paying them 480 dollars he saw no positive results. I core aerated my yard this August, making a minumum of 3 passes with excellent results, even in areas with absolutely no grass because I killed off the existing grass before seeding....See MoreNortheastern lawn help, seed / crabgrass preventer + aerate / thatch
Comments (3)Heed the wisdom. It is sort of ironic that Scott's wants to sell you more product but they put that warning on one of them. Seed should be put down in the fall. You missed your chance last year. I realize they sell seed now, but now is a bad time to put it down. Tomorrow is worse and it gets worse and worse until fall. Now is a great time to prevent crabgrass, though. There is a lot more to the conflict between spring seeding and weed control, but the best thing you can do at this point is take good care of what you have. That alone should minimize the weeds. 2) No. You don't need to dethatch. Dead grass below the live grass is normal. There is also the possibility that you have Kentucky bluegrass which is still dormant. So it might look dead but it will come back. Let's all cross our fingers for that. That would mean you don't need more seed, because KBG spreads to fill thin spots without reseeding. Fescue and rye grass do not do that. 3a) Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. 3b) Mulch mow at your mower's highest setting. 3c) Fertilize on Memorial Day, Labor Day, and Thanksgivingish. Once a year I would use an organic fertilizer in addition to, or instead of, the first two applications. I went completely organic after trying it once, so you might have the same experience. 3d) Spot spray weeds in mid April. Use something like Weed-b-Gon or Weed-b-Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer. Don't use a granulated herbicide as it is a waste of herbicide and a soil contaminant. 3e) Don't use an insecticide unless you have insect damage on your lawn. Just because your neighbors use a preventive insecticide every June, don't fall for that. 3f) Get ready to reseed if you need to in August. Then do the reseeding in September (in NJ). That gives the grass time to come in and for you to evaluate whether you need more seed. 3g) The last fertilizer application of the year is a winterizer. It should be a high N, fast release product. Wait until the grass has stopped growing but before it goes totally dormant. The idea is to push nutrients to the roots without stimulating new growth, so the grass has to have stopped growing for the year. Then next spring your lawn should be one of the first to awaken. 3h) If you have hard soil when it is moist spray with shampoo at a rate of 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet. Any clear shampoo will work. Follow that with 1/2 to 1 inch of water to get it down into the soil. After 3 weeks you should see the soil getting softer after it rains or when you water. 3i) Don't get tempted to topdress with soil or sand. That will change your drainage in ways you don't want. 3j) Proper watering (3a, above) is the single most important thing on this list. If you don't get that right you will run in circles with this product or that and with aeration and dethatching when you don't need it....See MoreTom Henderson
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