Here are some general suggestions: Ideally, the hood aperture should encompass the rising and expanding effluent. Where not blocked by the back wall or side cabinets, the expansion angle is within 25 degrees of a vertical line over the pan edges. This expansion can be sketched and bump-out vs. height can be evaluated. If the hood size turns out to be impractically (or unaesthetically) deep, reserve the most noxious cooking for the back hobs. Ideally, the hood aperture should be high enough to not hit one's head on when bending over the stove, or blocking sight lines into pots, but not higher than necessary. A side view stick figure scale drawing helps here also. CFM have to be sufficient to remove the captured air from the hood plenum (containment). This requires an air velocity equal to the rising effluent velocity (3 ft/s) over an area that is roughly equal to the aperture area at the baffles. (Some slack here can be tolerated depending on the hood baffles' aerodynamic details.) (Hoods one can stand to be near without ear protection do not suck up effluent from the cook top.) Area (sq. ft.) times velocity (ft/s) times 60 s/min yields CFM. Fans need to have zero static pressure CFM higher than this value by some factor dependent on baffle loss, aperture losses, ducting losses, and fan curve factors. Plan on 1.2 to 1.3 to be safe. Various CFM rules of thumb (or nose) (or grease accumulation) may be found in various references. As an exercise for the student of ventilation you wish you had, read the references that may be found at my "clippings." Neglect not the issue of make up air. MUA is required in many jurisdictions when the CFM are greater than some value. This is a safety issue with combustion appliances. Search MUA on this forum for a second tranche of reading. kas

Unless your house has too much insulation for your climate it is always best to oversize your stove. Remember you can always build a small fire in a bigger stove but not the other way around. The only manufacturer I would avoid is Vermont Castings. Hopefully you already have a cache of fully seasoned firewood. If not the performance of the stove will be disappointing.

hi corrie, similar to others posted (from houzz): [eclectic kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/eclectic-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2104) by new york interior designer Olga Adler [traditional kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by philadelphia general contractor Echelon Custom Homes [traditional kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by boston general contractor Mitchell Construction Group

I think capture area of the hood surround and cfms are more important than the width of the insert. I looked at your links--the one from AJMadison moves 600cfm, compared to the Broan at 400cfm, and is a much better price than the one from best, which is also 600cfm. I can't vouch for the quality of any of them. One advantage of the 400cfm, or less, is no make up air required for that size. (Check your local code on that.) I have a Broan 390cfm in a 30" surround, and it works fine--a little noisy on high, but I rarely leave it on that setting. If you haven't already done so, check each hood for noise rating (sones). You can ask on the Appliance forum, too. Good luck!