Location plays a big part in low pitch roof type selection. If you get significant snow you end up doing a lot of work to prevent water from getting under lap shingles. Double coverage roll tends to have a limited life. Bitumen (torch or cold) still has a lot of field seams that require sealing. The material is also very thin and easily damaged by debris (falling on the roof or being stepped on when already there). EPDM can usually be had in large enough pieces for residential with factory seams. It is also from 0.040 thick and more. EPDM against brick requires a wooden nailer, then the EPDM is held in place with straps and screws, and the edge covered with counter flashing. I use copper set in grooves in the mortar joints of brick walls. It can even be done on stone walls but it is a lot harder to cut the grooves. EPDM can be glued down, ballasted down, or mechanically fastened. The last one I installed has a 500 lb AC condenser in the middle of an 18 x 10 area that holds it down and is screwed and clamped at the edges. Resource Conservation makes up pieces to order and leaves a flap at each seam that you can anchor through as the roof is installed using special washers and screws. You end up with no exposed fasteners. Some commercial work drives fasteners through the EPDM and then covers the area with the edge of the next piece. Field seams are more likely ot cause problems and the uncured EPDM used to make the seams is a real PITA to handle. It sticks to EVERYTHING. You, the tools to cut it, etc. I much prefer a factory seamed panel that can be cut down to exact size. The EPDM industry is not interested in residential work, so finding a good installer can be a problem. In Europe it is used for residential and many details of installation can be obtained. Tar based products cannot touch EPDM without causing damage. Old roof decks need an isolation membrane or a layer of plywood (1/4 inch is fine). When I need to run EPDM up to shingles I use 1/8 inch plywood up under the last course of shingles, install the EPDM, the use flashing between the shingles and the EPDM. The best edge treatment for EPDM is to wrap it over the edge and fasten to the fascia using aluminum bars, sealing tape, and screws. Use stainless hardware here.

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I don't believe there are any standards for roofing or roof slope in HUD's Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards. For site built homes, the IRC, NRCA, and most shingle manufacturers allow a minimum roof slope of 2 in 12 for self-sealing asphalt shingles if the underlayment is self-adhering Ice & Water Shield or it's equivalent. The IRC even allows a 2 in 12 slope with double coverage felt underlayment but that is not acceptable to the NRCA or shingle manufacturers and is a sub-standard construction practice IMHO. None of these published standards should be confused with good building design for a particular location and building configuration.

Our roofer has suggested 2 different approaches: Option 1. 90 mil EPDM - 1/2" cover board - 2" polyiso - 7.5" EPS. This option would also require a 10" knee wall built around perimeter of roof. Total cost about $53,000. Also said to spray foam vertical walls inside the rafter area for additional cost of about 5000. His proposal also included a 7 1/4" fascia - curious how this would work since the roof assembly will be thicker than 7 1/4". Option 2 90 mil EPDM - 1/2" cover board - 2 layers of 2.2" polyiso. This option would require 3 2x4's nailed around perimeter. Also need to add 6" closed cell spray foam on underside. Proposal also includes 7 1/4" fascia. Total cost about $68,000. Would you guys recommend option 1 or option 2? We have about 3800 SF of roof.