How to get rid of leaves after aeration / overseeding?
tuttibs
8 years ago
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morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
8 years agotuttibs
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Core aerating and overseeding questions
Comments (4)Core aerating and seeding go hand-in-hand as second to preferable seeding methods. The reason is the exposed cores provide an ideal condition for seed/soil contact. Plus, as the cores mulch themselves back into the soil, they carry the seeds with them. Is that what you're asking? The growing seasons, which are the periods of active growth, is when you want to core aerate. So, your timing is ideal. The only thing I would suggest is beginning your process as soon as possible. Rather than waiting until the end of the month, make it mid-August if you can. I say because this is also the season to battle Poa, and just killing it off and overseeding is not enough. After the new grass is established and has been mowed 2-3 times, apply a pre-emergent herbicide that is labeled for controlling Poa annua, like Balan, Dimension, or other (whichever also offers post-emergence effectiveness) or something like Prograss (very, very expensive) as soon as possible. Check herbicide label for exactly when application after seeding can take place. Incidentally, core aerate and overseed the whole the lawn, not just certain areas. Here is irrigation schedule for the seeds water 15-20 minutes twice a day for two weeks water 20-30 minutes once a day for one week water 30-45 minutes once a day every other day for one week water 30-45 minutes once a day twice a week for one week move into deep irrigation, increasing the time to provide 1 inch of water all over and decreasing the frequency to just once a week. Starting off, the schedule supplies roughly 1/4 inch of water, then increases that amount while decreasing frequency of application at the same time. Like practically everything that concerns lawn care, this schedule is a general guideline and should be modified to accomodate your specific conditions. The lengths of time should be modified if you have an automatic sprinkler system since that will not take as long to provide adequate moisture. So, decrease amount of water (time) but maintain frequency as is. The tuna cans test is recommended. If it is still especially warm, you may want to irrigate 3 times a day (10-15 minutes if necessary) for that first couple weeks. Your objective is to keep the upper 1 inch of soil moist and not let the seeds dry out. Baby the grass for the rest of year. Once the seeds begin to sprout, don't walk on it if at all possible....See MoreDid aeration and over-seeding. Can I still use Drive XLR8?
Comments (5)Unless you are seeding zoysia or bermuda grass, then EARLY FALL IS ALWAYS THE BEST TIME TO SEED. The next best time is mid fall. If you wait until late fall then you don't have a chance to fill in any thin spots where you didn't get enough grass seed the first time. Spring is the second worst time of year to seed with summer being the worst. Even winter can be an better than spring or summer under certain circumstances....See MoreAerating, overseeding and topdressing questions
Comments (4)LOL, I was just reading one of your posts yesterday about how you don't recommend soil for topdressing and wondered if you would weigh in. (: I love the idea of reclaiming my hard clay eventually (when I aerated, some of the plugs that came out were hard little bullets that still haven't broken down!). However, in the middle of our front yard, we have two access panels down to the telephone/hydro/cable lines that are buried in newer subdivisions around here. Last fall, I bent my lawnmower blade hitting the cement corner of one, and this year, the soil around both panels has settled quite a bit more. I was thinking that I'd use the soil/compost mix to fill in some of these areas, rather than straight compost, which will decompose eventually. However, I also don't want to raise the level of my yard so that I scalp the grass when I mow on the edge by the driveway. So, should I just use the soil mix to raise the lower areas, and compost on the rest of the yard? Given the quality of the existing soil at this point, I also wanted to ensure my overseeding was successful. Thanks!...See MoreLawn Thicker, Greener than Ever after Fall Aeration/Overseeding
Comments (3)I live in Southern Pennsylvania, it's a mix of perrennial rye, tall fescue and Kentucky blue grass, overseeded with a mix of Kentucky blue grass and perrennial rye. I haven't watered yet this season but during the summer I use a RainBird impact sprinkler and try to get about an inch down every week, watering 3 separate times a week. But I'm not extremely regimented about watering. The only fertilizer I've put down so far is Turf Builder with Halts and Grub Ex. I've started mowing at 3-3.5 inches this spring with a lawn striper....See Moremorpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
8 years agotuttibs
8 years agoowlnsr
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8 years agoreeljake
8 years agomorpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
8 years agotuttibs
8 years agomorpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
8 years ago
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