I agree with Lea except wait 5-7 days for it to harden over before planting. Also cut all the leaves off. Any leaf will draw water from the stalk and make it wilt. Until it has its own new roots, leaves are a problem. Bottom heat is essential for good rooting so place your black plastic pot on hot concrete in the day or on a seed mat. For the parent plant you have many options. Any branch cut will not bloom that year. It will regrow from 1-7 new branches somewhat parallel to the original branch. For this reason, branches are often cut half this year and half next so you always have a blooming branch. The cut branch needs to be about 6-10 inches from the stem or it will not regenerate branches (some will). I cut my branches, let them dry and then coat the end with DAP tub and tile sealant in cedar tan. This is the best product I have found. I would also recommend root pruning your plant. You remove the roots and dirt and cut away 1-2" around the plant and from the bottom or if it is in a large pot, stick a long knife with teeth or a keyhole saw blade parallel to the pot side and cut 1-2" from the pot edge all the way around the pot and then remove the plant and cut from the bottom. Replace the removed soil with new mix with some starter fertilizer mixed in and water with B-1 and/or Superthrive. Reposition the plant as you do this to make it stand more upright and be balanced. Hold it with a pole or with styrofoam pieces and it will rejuvinate and be happy as a clam. Bill

Stu, It's safe to use it as needed with a few precautions. Be sure to spray top and bottom of leaves and if you are having very strong sun I would consider moving it to part sun or spraying only in the evenings until treatment cycle is done. K

Not sure why nobody helped you. Sorry. The leaves are the first place damage is seen but its pretty hard to diagnose from the pics provided. Can you take a picture of the top of the plant where the leaves are forming? Also can you describe how often its watered, fertilized, etc. It looks like the soil is pretty wet and there is a drip container also. My initial thoughts are related to being too wet. I recommend not using a drip saucer and possibly up potting into a larger container with a fast draining soil mix.

Well, first off, it's an Adenium, like Michael said. It's a member of the Apocynaceae family, like Plumeria and Oleander/Nerium. Water is probably not the problem. The branches probably were damaged by the cold. If it was exposed to freezing temperatures for an extended time, that might be the problem. See how your leaves are drooping, but still green? Plants don't do that when they get dehydrated. They suck water and nutrients out of the leaf, leaving it yellow and withered before it drops off. That tells me it's probably a reaction to the cold exposure. Check the caudex (the swollen trunk at the base of the plant). If it is still firm, it probably isn't too damaged. I would also unpot it and check the swollen roots beneath the soil. If they don't show signs of rot, then you're probably safe, although it wouldn't hurt to apply some anti-fungal. If isn't firm, you can look up a course of action. Some people will cut the dead parts out, it's a pretty drastic operation and I'm not an expert on that, since I've never had to deal with it. Luckily, if it does survive, adeniums are absurdly hardy. They don't like cold or rot, but they will tolerate unbelievable amounts of physical mutilation. You'll probably loose the branches from where the withering is and above. Cut them off if they don't recover and you notice the withering spreading downwards. That will let the adenium form a callus. Careful, the sap is poisonous, like plumeria sap. Don't sweat the branches; adeniums usually get pruned down to about that level when they get as leggy as yours. Be careful with the watering, it might stay dormant all winter, and you shouldn't let it go completely without water, but you don't want it to rot either. Maybe give it a little water once or twice a month, it really depends on the potting medium.