Must agree with brickeyee and worthy on this one - it may not be salvageable. Since it needs a new roof and siding anyway, you might try stripping it nearly down to the framing and straightening that, then if it keels over half your work is already done. ;-) If you can replace the garage on the existing footprint with no change in size or orientation, you may be able to appeal to the code enforcement office of your municipality to have your new garage grandfathered. We had that option when we tore down our disintegrating ~1915 garage last summer, we could have used the old footprint even though it was right on the property line as long as the new structure was exactly the same size as the old. It had been built directly on dirt with no foundation, and as a result the sills, joists, and a few inches up the walls were so punky you could stick a finger through them, it had developed a distinct list to one side, and the roof had begun to dip rather badly with the huge snow loads of the previous winter being the last straw for the poor thing - it would have cost in the area of $15k to have the thing jacked up, a foundation dug and either a slab poured or cinderblock foundation built, squared up, sills replaced, roof completely rebuilt and wall structures patched, while it cost about $1k to have it demolished, debris hauled off, and the area regraded. Since you could just about have fit a Mini Cooper in there with a crowbar and about 5 gallons of grease and the whole thing was saturated with critter pee and more than a bit of skunk we didn't think that was a worthwhile investment. We replaced it with a somewhat smaller shed that was a fantastic match to our 1900 "Victorian Lite", even better than the original garage had been, and were granted an exemption to place it within the footprint of the original structure. Codes in my city require a 10' setback for any permanent structure (meaning anything more substantial than one of those little metal sheds-from-a-box), but we have an extremely narrow lot that made that impractical to say the least. I have also heard of people doing much what worthy mentioned, replacing one wall at a time of an old garage or barn under the guise of "repairs" until eventually the whole thing was new! Not what I would do, karma would probably bite me in the butt for dishonesty, but it does happen.

These are the questions (with some slight modifications for your situation,some of which you have answered): What are your goals? E.g., ample counter space, ample storage, seating in the kitchen (island? peninsula? table?), pantry, etc. What is your family composition? Adults? Children? Age ranges of children? Current? Future? How many kitchen workers are there? Cook(s)? Cleanup? Helpers? Now? Future? (E.g., if you have young children, plan for them as teens for both "sizing" of seating as well as helping in the kitchen in general) How do you see your kitchen used? Just for cooking/cleaning up? Children doing homework while you cook? Do you entertain a lot? Formal? Informal? Do you want your kitchen to be a "hang out" place? Parties only? Everyday? Do you plan to have a separate DR? Do you plan to use it frequently? Infrequently? Formal entertaining only? Would you like the kitchen to be open to adjacent areas? Close it up? Where are you flexible? Window(s) to the counter? Several inches above? > Does the sink have to be centered under a window? Does it have to be under a window at all? Note: The more constraints you put on a space (e.g., sink centered under a window), the fewer options there are. So, be sure any limitations/constraints you mention are true constraints. Do you bake? Do you want a coffee/tea/beverage center? What appliances do you plan on having (helps to figure out work flow, work zones, and types of cabinets...upper/lower vs full height, etc.) Range or Cooktop? Single or Double or no Wall Oven? Warming Drawer? MW? (Advantium, MW Drawer, OTR MW/Hood, countertop, built-in, shelf?) DW? Standard or drawers? If drawers, 1 or 2? Refrigerator (Top/bottom freezer, SxS, or all-fridge/freezer? Counter-depth (CD), standard-depth, or built-in?) Ventilation Hood (range hood)? Other? Sizes of desired appliances (e.g., 30" or 36" or 48" cooktop; 36" or 42" or 48" wide or other Refrigerator? Counter depth or standard depth refrigerator, etc.) Pantry: Walk-in or cabinets? In the Kitchen or outside the Kitchen (e.g., Mudroom or hall) ***** Very Important ***** Is there anything you: Can't live without? Definitely don't want? Would like if you can find a way? You might also want to read the "Planning for Storage" portion of the "Read Me" thread...not to finalize anything at this point, but to add them to your thought process as you work out a layout. Here are some things to read about as you begin the planning process: Work Zones Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There: Storage--pantry & refrigerator--Tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags Preparation--sink & trash--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels Cooking--cooktop/range & MW--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper...

You should build the largest garage you can fit on the property. It will get filled up. I know lots of people that use their garages only for storage. You can never have a big enough garage. We built a 24'x24' garage for our previous home. It really was my garage and my husbands shop. With things in it his full size Chevy truck was tight so he never parked in it. We also have 3 motorcycles that we stored in an enclosed trailer. Our new house has a triple garage with one small and a double door. At only 21' depth his truck still gets parked outside. Our motorcycles are in the smaller side and my small car is center stage in the larger. If he were to park in it he would need to close the garage door after walking around the back of the truck. His truck does have a large grill guard that is the problem. But he has plans on building another garage that is 27' deep for his truck and projects.

Just a thought: Ideally, studs are installed with "16" centers" -- the center of each stud is 16" away from the adjacent studs. That means you should be able to nail a piece of 4'x8' plywood or particle board, etc., to the studs of your home with the two (4') side edges of each panel overlapping half a stud and also be able to secure each panel to two more studs evenly spaced in between. So, if your home is wrapped in 4'x8' panels and your vertical batten boards are 8" apart, the vertical boards should cover every seam between the panels and can be securely nailed to two other studs, minimizing the likelihood of any warping that might otherwise loosen the vertical boards that are nailed to the panels but not nailed into a stud.