I know it's an old thread, but I came across it and felt I could add something for other people wondering the same thing. Wow, so ok, this thread is... very interesting? Went from somewhat helpful to nursery bashing lol. There are four ways to control vigor/ size in a tree: Precocity, spacing, dwarfing rootstocks, and pruning out large branches. You can plant them 2ft apart in the row and 8ft alleys as a spindle if you want, or 20 ft apart as an open vase if you want (hint: the spindle is going to yield more than the vase per acre). The biggest thing to maximizing yields is maximizing bearing surface and light interception per acre. I use dual-leader UFO (upright fruiting offshoot) training for everything now. UFO was originally developed for spur-fruiting species (apples, plums, pears, cherries), but it can be modified to work with tip and year-old-growth bearing species (some apples, peaches, apricots). You just have to space out your uprights more and allow for limited lateral branching. For peaches, I plant trees 8 feet apart in row, with 7ft alleys (I use a TYM 234 tractor). I plant the trees at roughly a 45 degree angle. I allow the uprights on the primary leader to grow (keep terminal bud upright), and select one below the bottom cordon to train as the second leader. I then remove the other buds below the bottom wire. By the end of 1st leaf, you should have both leaders tied to the wire, and mostly filled the space between trees, you've pruned off the pendant shoots, and you should have some fruiting wood for next year. In the winter, tip back the fruit sticks and eliminate damaged/crowded wood. second leaf- limited fruiting possible, focus on establishing your uprights roughly every 10 inches (6 inches for spur bearing species) and finish filling in the space. Eliminate pendant wood, shoots sticking outside of the vertical plane, and any uprights beyond your "permanent" ones in late summer, after any harvest (limited regrowth that way). Next year's fruiting wood is now on the upright shoots. Tip back the fruit sticks and eliminate damaged/crowded fruiting wood. Third Leaf- should definitely get fruit, goal is to get your upright shoots to the top wire (which for a should be roughly 75% of your alley width, IMO). Same kind of pruning as previous years. At some point, your laterals are going to start to grow together, at that point, you need to do renewal pruning in the winter back to a bud near the upright. Once your uprights get to about 1.25x your alley width, head the uprights back to on bud above the top wire (otherwise you'll shade the bottom of the next row). As uprights approach 3/4 to 1 inch diameter at the base, take the largest one every year down to one bud above the leader (unlike apples and cherries, peaches don't regenerate as readily, so you need to give it the best chance). All renewal type pruning should be done before budbreak, to encourage vigorous regrowth.

omeyers, We are in Illinois. We build a 1800 s.f. home for us about 6 years ago and used Icynene (foam insulation) on 2x4 walls. We loved it! I think the savings were not that good in this size of homes, they say that homes bigger thn 3,000 s.f. get better savings. I liked the fact of knowing there was no fiber glass flying around (usually the insulation they pace at the rim joist is exposed) We sold the house last year pretty fast (1 month)and the insulation was a good factor. Last year we built another house for us, 2,500 s.f. and used 2x6 and blow in Spider Insulation with R-23 (DH just wanted to try something different). I loved the fact that it was a formaldehyde free insulation. DH wanted to see what people thought about the house (he is retiring in about 6 years and we will move down south)and we had an open house prior the closing - we received an offer the same day and decided to sell the house :( (we paid $5,000 and the attic was R-49) Now we need a house for us and getting ready to start building. The thing is, the foam insulation is just R-13 (officially) and they claim it performs a lot higher than that because it seals better (and it's true). DH wanted to try it again and the bid was 13,000. We supposely save in wood studs, vapor barrier and window extensions but still it is about 40% higher than the SPIDER. The way I see it, when promoting the house to sell it, isn't it better to say that the house is 2x6 with R-23 formaldehyde free than saying we have a 2x4 with R-13 -but very marbelous insulation? oh and the foam insulation people say that incresing the stud to 2x6 does not help and the price will be double!!! What do you guys think? we are still deciding. see the attached link, it healps to know what R-value to use depending on location Here is a link that might be useful: Energy Efficiency

Thanks, If I trim it down or take off the jamb, would it compromise the integrity of the window? I am not much of a handyman, so will ask my framing guy to do it. Do you guys think this would be a annoying request for the framer to strip down 6 windows n install n bigger question would a framer know how to do this?

As long as the CMU wall has the right number of bolts to tie down the 2x6 ledger, I don't know why it won't work. I would also use vertical rebar in the CMU wall (drilled and epoxied into the footing, at the proper spacing, and voids filled with concrete around rebar). Also use ladder ties between courses to ensure its a rock solid wall. Does the CMU have the stone veneer finish already? You usually use a CMU that is deeper than the framed wall so that you get an exterior "brick ledge" for the stone veneer to rest on. Bruce