bpgreen - Im not sure what kind of grass I have but I know its not all the same type....some areas are much thicker & more dense that other parts of the lawn and its usually the thick/dense area that gets taller faster and thus alerts me that its time to mow. I purchased the home only four years ago and have never planted any grass seed myself (I bought the house from a very elderly lady that I doubt did any grass seed planting herself). I dont know how many sqft the bottle covered but I remember that it was a 32 oz bottle. I threw the bottle away after I had finished the application but I just did an internet search for a use & directions label and found something that said 6.4fl oz per 1000sqft. The area I sprayed measures about 20'x50' on one side of the walkway and maybe 30'x50' on the other side (looks like I may have applied twice as much as I should have, if the use & directions label I found online is the correct one). Any suggestions on what I can do to "save" the grass if it turns out I over-applied? texasweed - The grass is at least four year old, does that take it out of the "young" grass category? Also, Im not sure if this might help with a diagnosis but......up until this past week, Cincinnati has had a steady flow of rainfall over the past several weeks (at least 2-3 days a week) with temperatures around the mid to upper 60's. However, this past week there was ZERO rain and the temps got up into the low 80's.

A weed killer is a plant killer and if you apply it so that there is a chance that it will get into your grass via the freshly cut grass blade, then you might be setting yourself up for some grief. Which is the long winded way of saying 'wait a day or two to ensure that the cut ends seal'.

Thanks you the help. Well developed crabgrass is an understatement (I have another choice of words I can't post LOL!!!), you wouldn't believe it if you saw it. The entire backyard is nothing but "well developed crabgrass." The builders landscaper is suppose to be back to over-seed the entire development where they tried to hydro-seed in mid June. Rumor has it the landscaper is going to slice seed. Based on the fact that the builder and landscaper don't seem to have a handle on when to install a lawn. Do you think it would be worth using Tenacity? Although neighbors who have spoken with the landscaper have told me the landscaper says he knew better then to try and plant in June, but the builder forced him into hydro-seeding in June. I am just afraid he'll slice or over-seed in some fashion in the bed of weeds. Thanks again

I use Milorganite in the spring as well, for summer and fall I use the Scott's Turfbuilder product designed for that season. I am by no means a lawn expert though, these are just easy to find, relatively inexpensive products that do the job well enough for me. I'm confident you could kill the ivy (and not your trees) if you have the time and patience. Again I'd suggest trying the Weed B Gon Chickweed Clover & Oxalis concentrate in an Ortho Dial N' Spray hose end sprayer. Just pick a calm day and get down low to avoid spraying the tree trunks and leaves. If the ivy is anything like wild violet it will take a couple of applications but it will work eventually. Then like you mentioned you'll have to rake out the dead ivy and reseed the bare patches. But as others have said, a weed-free (or even weed sparse) lawn is a huge commitment so I don't blame you for hiring it out--if you can find someone to call you back. Last thing I'll say is that no matter how diligent you are about your own lawn, if your neighbors aren't equally diligent you will always have some of their dandelions, clover, ivy, etc. filtering into your lawn. So I've lowered my expectations and live with a semi-weed free lawn after 13+ years at my current house.