Where is the previously mentioned closet in relation to this first floor bathroom? across the hall?

Here's a basic drawing of your space. If you reply with the window size, distance from walls and sill height that'll help.

I believe you need an absoute minimum 90"x60" room to fit a tub/shower combo. Within this footprint I think the best you can do is a corner shower. I would not take space out of the garage to get a first floor tub. Perhaps your hallway/ closet/ powder (laundry) can all be reconfigured to meet your needs.

To add this image I just clicked on the photo icon below the comment field and selected the image from my computer.

Hi Benje, that graph looks right. Thank you! I know how to attach photos/images, it's simply not allowing me to- so frustrating! I've already sent a request to customer service to troubleshoot/have it fixed. The window can be replaced with something smaller if need be. I'm not home now, but I can tell you there is roughly 32 inches from the wall to the left side of the window frame, and then about a 27 inch window (including frame) with another 17 inches or so to the wall. Below the window is a radiator that will be replaced with some baseboard. Not sure what the height is from the floor to the sill.

How would you configure a corner shower in the existing space, and would I need a pocket door? Also, out of curiosity, why would you advice against a full tub/shower combo as part of the remodel? Does it detract from resale/equity?

Sorry, meant to add that the closet for the washer/dryer is a few feet from the entrance to the bathroom.The bathroom door is located at the end of the hallway, that runs along the backside of my kitchen on the right, and on the left side of the hallway are my stairs to the basement, then a large-ish pantry (38 inches by 45 inches) that is being reconfigured to a laundry closet.

does the pantry share a wall with the present powder/laundry?

Can the entrance wall of the powder/laundry be moved away from the window (into the hallway?

I found this on another thread:

Hi Benje, yes! Thank you for digging that image up! Directly outside the bathroom as you can probably see is an alcove with the doorway to the garage. Alongside that alcove in the same hallway is the closet, where laundry will be relocated. We had originally thought to move walls around and extend the size of the bathroom to include the washer dryer there, however that meant knocking down and relocating walls and relocating the doorway to our garage, which seems like quite a bit of work. That was when we had the idea of simply relocating the washer and dryer to the closet to open up that space in the bathroom for a tub and/or shower. I also got used to the idea of having the washer and dryer outside of the bathroom which means laundry can be accessed while the bathroom is in use.

Your bath with a corner shower. You have to have at least 30" of width for a toilet and 30" from the front of the toilet to a wall or other fixture, that's why the toilet is in the upper right corner location. I also thought you need 30" of width for a bathroom sink, but I'm not certain of that. You might be okay with a sink in the bottom left.

Or you could flip it:

I would choose the layout that best hides the toilet from view in other parts of the house.

Turns out I can attach images, from my mobile device, :)

So no way to get a tub/ shower combo in there, even with a pocket door? Is it too narrow?

You're restricted by your local building code. The bottom drawing reflects the minimum clear floor required by the IRC. According to this code, if your tub is 30" wide and your toilet projects less than 24" from the wall, you could make it work. Elongated toilet bowls are much preferred over round, but a round will take up less space and could make the difference for you.

I wouldn't put a pocket door in this bathroom. It's going to get used too much. Just have it swing open toward the tub.

That last image is exactly what I hope to do! When I get home I will measure things out to see if it will allow properly for the width and length of the tub. Thank you so much for drafting up this image, and helping me see the big picture with so many great options! Do you happen to know the standard length of the tub? It does not look like I'll have enough for the door swing without it hitting the tub, but I do agree that a pocket door in a high traffic bathroom is not ideal.

I wasn't thinking. A swinging door might have to swing into the hall since you're looking at minimum clear floor space.

You could fit in a Kohler Greek Tub. It will allow you the tub you want but will be fairly deep for a shower but could still be used as a shower. It is 48" x 32" wide. It would limit your choice of vanities though. You would be looking at a fairly small 16" wide vanity if you use the tub. I would also look at a wall mount toilet to save space. You will want some space in the middle of the bathroom to move around. Can all your fixtures move around? I would also use a pocket door with good hardware in the bathroom. It should have no problem with being used often.

If you have 76" across... 30" tub + 21" minimum clear floor space leaves you with less than 25" from the wall to the front projection of the toilet. I just did a quick search and only found rounded toilets that projected 27 3/4. You might have to hunt for a toilet <25" from finished wall to front.

Wall mounted toilet?

This was listed on a 3 year old article as the industry's smallest toilet on a 12" rough in at 25.25"

Kohler Rialto

Okay, so I just had the contractor here and everything should fit just right, with a standard tub size using a pocket door. He will move the door opening a few inches further from the wall towatds the sink area to allow for the tub space. Right now, the 'walkway' between my washing machine and end of toilet is about 21 inches and the washing machine sticks out 30" off the back wall which I believe is the width the tub will extend.

Also, my existing toilet extends exactly 27" from finished wall to front, so I'm keeping it!

If you can't attach a photo with the photo button I have had success in hitting Houzz Photo and then browse (your computer) for it and hit insert photo. No idea why it gets cranky sometimes but that has worked for me.

Thanks, Autumn - that did the trick!!!

This is almost my exact layout, but instead of a clawfoot, it will be a boring fiberglass shower/tub combo with some sort of tile surround. (probably white subway to make the space look larger).

Jenn's Place · More Info

Are you permitting this renovation? If your toilet is 19 inches from the tub, you won't be to code.

What does the contractor say about building an alcove into the garage. I'd take out a foot if it's possible.

We patterned our boring fiberglass shower from this one we saw in a parade home and I think it gives ya some pizzaz while saving on the pocket book. :)

Karen, contractor said no to the idea. Would not be up to code to add alcove to add space. But, a standard 60x 30 tub will fit anyhow, so no need to spend extra.

Benjesbride, where does she lose the 2"? It appears that she is not aware of the loss.

Rebeccamomof123, are you pulling permits to do the work, or do you live in an area where the city/town/county inspectors are going to become aware of the work and expect to come in and inspect it? Or is your area more like where I live and anything short of an addition is something that no one will notice and that inspectors don't drop in when workmen are around unless it is really obvious that a big job is being done?

The reason I ask is that your clearance for the toilet-to-tub distance is right on the edge of being okay. Some towns will not let you get that close. If you could get inspected by the code enforcement officer, or if you are doing this with permits, you need to draw this up and get it approved before assuming it is going to be approved.

If you need to steal back a couple of inches to make it fit, one option is a wall-hung toilet. Your contractor opens up the wall behind your toilet and puts the tank and flushing works inside the wall (not the stuff you have, it is custom made for this purpose) and then the toilet part actually hangs off the wall and never touches the floor. It is much nicer for cleaning. All of Europe has been doing it this way for years, I hear.

http://www.geberitnorthamerica.com/en_us/target_groups/enduser/products_enduser/toilets_2/concealed_systems_1/for_toilets_1.html

Tine Halseth Vuorma · More Info

Thanks all. Code is not a huge concern around here. I live in New England where many houses are 60-100 years old and original structures are small. Lots of people do what I'm doing to eek the most they can out of every square inch. And actually the dryer thst is currently where my tub will go, comes out farther than my tub will, so I'm making more space. Not sure about pulling permits but I don't think it will be necessary, since no walls are coming down and we're working off of the existing plumbing.